Beef Shank Braised in Red Wine with Root Vegetables

Developed March, 2020. This hard-to-find, economical cut was purchased at La Superior Carniceria, a Mexican supermarket in Durham during an OLLI 'Foodie Field Trip, an activity now on hold until the pandemic is brought under control.

Beef Shank Braised in Red Wine with Root Vegetables

4 cross-cut beef shanks
1 large onion sliced through the root into eighths
2 ribs celery, cut obliquely into large pieces
4 carrots, roll-cut into large pieces
1 T minced garlic
3/4 c red wine
1/4 c ketchup
2 T tomato paste
2 c hot beef stock
2 bay leaves
8 peppercorns
3 allspice berries
2 T paprika, divided
1 lb thin-skinned potatoes, quartered lengthwise

Preheat oven to 340 F. Salt shanks well, dust both sides with flour, and snip the outside fascia to prevent curling. Arrange meat in the bottom of a covered roaster and top with vegetables, wine, ketchup, spices, and stock. Dust generously with paprika. Roast 25 minutes. Turn meat and vegetables, cover, lower heat to 315 F, and roast for 30 minutes.  Turn, add the potatoes, dust with paprika, and continue roasting covered until the meat is fork tender, about another hour. Replace water as it's lost. Variations: Omit potatoes and serve over egg noodles, or substitute beef cheek or shoulder for shank.

MiniReview: Copa Cuban Restaurant

Wound up at lunch time feeling a bit peckish parked across Main Street from the newly opened Cuban place, "Copa". Checked the menu on my smart phone. Looked yumm and affordable. Greg Cox gave it ****, $$, a great ratio of quality to cost. Son Jon and I popped in, were immediately seated. Durham is still very quiet after Hurricane Florence, even though all roads are clear and the sky was sunny. An elegant room, cream lemon walls, photographs of Cuban scenes. Not old Havana. Today's. 

The verdict? Best Cuban sandwich possible! They bake the bread. Perfect crust and crumb. They cure the ham. They cure the pickles. They roast the meat. Their own sauce. And wonderful blackbeans in a rich, aromatic gravy. Good golly, tops! Only drank ice water, which they serve at the table in an elegant, ice-cold glass bottle. Friendly, effective service. We both ordered the same meal, total was $24 before tax and tip. Worth every scrumptious morsel. I took half of mine home. We both made happy noises.

Copa
106 W. Main St.
Durham, NC 27701
https://copadurham.com/

Salsa Criolla

Developed September, 2014. Criolla is Spanish for a South American woman of European ancestry. This dish is broadly popular in Peru as a savory side for many dishes. This version is our interpretation of the dish as experienced in a local Peruvian restaurant, Mî Peru.

200 g (1 medium) red onion, thinly sliced through the poles
40 ml lime juice
20 ml red wine vinegar
10 g cilantro, finely chopped
5 g salt

Soak the sliced onions for 10 minutes in cold, salted water. Drain thoroughly, and add to a bowl. Add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Chill before serving. Pairs well with any rich dish such as risotto, roast beef, pork, or chicken.

Fried Chicken Salad

Prepared November 25, 2013. The dish uses leftover fried chicken breast meat.

1/2 lb (250 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast harvested from fried chicken (or rotisserie chicken), small dice
1/2 c celery, small dice
1/4 c green onions, finely crosscut
1 T vegetable oil
3 T lemon juice
2 T fresh parsley, minced (or 1 T dry)
1 t dry tarragon, rubbed
1/3 c mayonaise
salt and pepper to taste

In a small bowl, mix the chicken with the vegetables. Then drizzle on oil and lemon juice, add the herbs, and mix. Mix the mayonaise in gently, add salt and pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste. Makes about a pint. Variation: Substitute roast turkey breast for the chicken.

Review: Hit or Miss. Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant, Durham, NC.

Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant
3003 Guess Rd
Durham NC 27705
919.479.8339
http://www.hongkongdimsumindurham.com/ 
By Laura, originally published in TripAdvisor.com. Visited August, 2013. 
As a Durham resident, I have frequently dined or had take-out from the Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant on Guess Road. I love going for Dim Sum, but recently have often found service spotty. At times the servers are accommodating and others, like the last visit, borderline rude. Perhaps it was the steady stream of customers that made their morning difficult, but I wish they hadn’t taken it out on us.
On a recent Friday night we decided on a simple meal of Shrimp Egg Foo Young and some Stir-fried Baby Greens. Normally these are both dishes that we enjoy, but our last meal was memorable in a completely negative way. The only shrimp that I had were the few that I picked up from the bottom of the takeout container – the sauce was watery and too sweet. Our greens were properly cooked with the exception of raw chunks of garlic that had to be picked out to make the dish palatable.
What used to be a favorite is moving lower on our list. They used to be the best Chinese restaurant in town – now I am trying to find who else is out there…

Review: Peony Asian Bistro

Adapted from a post to Usenet newsgroup triangle.dining in 2007. Eldest son and I had a spontaneous lunch (delayed a trip to a nearby Home Depot) at a new restaurant open a few weeks in Patterson Place (near New Hope Commons off US Hwy 15-501) in Durham. This mini-mall is badly laid out and so it can be hard to spot but this place is across the way from Panera's.

We entered about 1 pm on Sunday. Only a few tables were occupied and they seemed to have about 5 servers and dining room managers. Plenty of service but it was confusing as to who to turn to for assistance. Although the posted paper menu looks like every other storefront "Chinese" restaurant, one's impression changes suddenly upon entering. The space is small but spacious. Tall ceilings and large expanses of orangey-peach walls give an open dramatic look. 

Most of the menu is conventional but they do offer sushi that we didn't try or see. Shortly after we were seated, our server brought a small artful salad as welcoming gift from the chef. I can't tell you what it was for sure but it was unique and delicious and beautiful. Seemed to be formed from fried panko crumbs, shreads of cold vegetables and a light savory dressing. A big surprise in a "store front" restaurant.

What makes this place a winner are the special dishes. Son ordered crispy shrimp with salt and pepper. Generous serving of large shrimp in a tempura-type breading ($11.95). Nicely garnished. He thought them excellent. The side order of pork fried rice was bland and forgettable. They frequently refilled his Coke. The side order of hot and sour soup was said to be better than average but not hot enough. My dish was especially outstanding. Half a boneless duck, crispy skin, moist tender meat over a bed of nicely sauced stir-fried vegetables with a side of steamed brown rice ($12.95). Very generous serving, beautifully presented. The flower garnish fashioned from orange carrot and *white* carrot was elegant. Not a surprise but a shock in a store-front mall restaurant but proof these people both know and care.

My only complaint was the tea. Oddly served in a coffee cup and very strong -- been sitting around for a while. I should have ordered fresh in a pot. They have beer and wine but very limited offerings. We will be back soon.

Ingredient: Durham-Style Q Sauce

Inspired by Sam Dillard's vinegar-spice-tomato-mustard sauce used and sold since 1950 in his Durham, NC BBQ restaurant. Sadly now closed and sauce no longer marketed it appears. [Update: a small supply was seen August, 2012 in a local supermarket's display of NC products.] Developed by DrDaddy in May, 2003 for use as a marinade, mop, and sauce for chicken, spare ribs, and pork shoulder.

1 c water
1/4 c vinegar
3/4 c tomato sauce
2 T prepared yellow mustard
1/2 t crushed red pepper
1/2 to 1 t Louisiana pepper sauce (Frank's™ is good)
2 t salt
2 t sugar
1 t tapioca starch (optional)

Measure the first three ingredients into a measuring cup, then add the others, and mix thoroughly. Microwave on high until 160 to 165 degrees F (72 C), stirring a few times. Store in a closed container in the refrigerator. Cover chicken or pork with sauce, and marinade in the refrigerator up to four hours. Grill over a medium fire, covered, basting and turning frequently.

Review: El Cuscatleco - A Salvadoran Eye Opener

Yesterday, a Sunday, about 5 pm, returning home along I-40 from the grand-girls dance recital in Smithfield (too cute for words), Laura and I were well beyond peckish. I found a discount coupon (one day expired) for El Cuscatleco (pronounced just like it looks -- but get ready for the second-to-last syllable *TLECK*) and figured it was on the way home off US-Hwy 15-501. Not much open on Sunday night but they are.
Their place is located in a low brick building set back from the street with parking in front. Just east of 15-501 at 4212 Garrett Rd. Durham NC

http://elcuscatleco.com/

They have an extensive menu, including slo-n-lo dishes such as beef stews. They feature Salvadoran dishes, and the place is finished with many Salvadoran flags, folk artifacts and assorted chatzkes and chazarei. Prominent are the drink specials (Monday, Margaritas at 1.50!). We appeared to be the only non-Salvadorans there. Things seemed pretty busy for a Sunday night. Mostly, families with kids dining out.
The salsa and tortilla chips complimentary starters featured a delicious fresh tomato salsa with a nice kick. All their dishes strike you with their freshness and wholesomeness. Laura ordered the grilled bistek in the house marinade (a flavorsome skirt, $9.95) . Savory and sweet, citrus-based with a bit of heat. Luscious fresh salad of tomatoes, avocado, lettuce, onions and sour cream to top the tortillas. The Salvadoran tortillas were very different from Mexican ones. Thick, steamy, and fragrant with deep corn goodness. Fine renderings of arroz and frijoles refrito on the side as usual.
 

Mojarra frita

My entree was the mojarra frita, a whole fried fish, in this case, tilapia. The fish is simply scored deeply to admit the hot fat, dusted in flour and seasonings, and deep fried. A beautiful presentation on a huge platter. I ate less than half, and took home a box heavy with leftovers. The fish was moist, sweet, and nicely seasoned. Tilapia is mild and benefits from a bit of cayenne and cumin. The sides were the same as Laura's. Also, $9.95.
We both enjoyed a Negra Modelo ($3), served with the obligatory lime wedge and a nicely frosted mug. The beer was not too cold and tasted perfect with the food.
The atmosphere was festive with the typical confused assault of the three - THREE - different TVs, and non-stop Hispanic singing (which I enjoy) from a CD player somewhere, but conversation was not strained. Service was friendly, attentive, and competent. They did accept the expired coupon and the owner welcomed us to return with the spare expired coupon. He told me they have been at that location 10 years! Under the radar. They had a second place on N. Roxboro Rd in Durham but it has closed.
A truly wonderful meal. 3-1/2 stars, one dollar sign.

REVIEW Byrd's Barbecue

REVIEW
Byrd's Barbecue
2816 Cheek Rd
Durham, NC 27704
Phone: (919) 530-1839
http://www.byrdsbbq.com/
M to F, 7 am to 7 pm
 
In short: Solid, savory, and cheap. $/***1/2.

Originally posted February 2009 to triangle.dining Usenet group. Son Jon and I lunched today (Wednesday) at Byrd's. An online comment mentioned that they offered a ribs or brisket special on Wednesdays. Who could resist? The place is on Cheek Rd., less than a mile east of the Cheek Rd. exit off US-70. On the right, you will see a simple single-story building with plenty of parking surrounding. A sign on top indicates they have been smoking meat since 1959. No pig statue evident anywhere!

Just inside the front door you enter a simple cheerful dining room, brightly lit by many windows. C&W plays quietly on the boom box propped above the vinegar assortment and plastic tableware. To order, pass through the dining room to the counter behind and place your order. They offer both sandwiches and plates. Desserts too. We both ordered the rib plate special. Includes two sides and free bottomless ice tea.

Take a seat in the dining room (almost empty at 2 pm), and the counterman will deliver your food when ready. Each plate held generous portions of ribs, the sides, and pups. The ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, meaty, and moist. Lightly dressed with a tangy sauce, tomatoey and slightly sweet with molasses with a mild smoke flavor. The green beans were simply seasoned with salt and pepper and appeared to NOT be slick with fat back. I also ordered "fried corn on the cob". Sounds like a state fair item but turned out to be very tasty with a caramelized color and flavor. Frying rescues frozen corn! The pups were crisp, fresh out of the fryer, and slightly sweetened. The tea was homemade and delicious. Son ordered the ribs too, but had mac and cheese and fries as sides. Said the m&c was "gooey", that is, very good. He pronounced all MOST acceptable. Plates were $7.99, including tea. I took half of it home with me for later.

As we left, I ducked in to tell the counterman and the cook how much we enjoyed their food. Both were conspicuously grateful. I promised to put the good news online. Here 'tis. Y'all come.

Onion-Tomato-Cucumber Salad

Onion-Tomato-Cucumber Salad

Inspired by the small salad served in tomato season at Bullock's, Durham's beloved "meat + three" restaurant. Marinade adapted March, 2008 from a recipe on cooks.com

Marinade:

2 oz vegetable oil (To double: 1/2 c)
1 oz apple cider vinegar (1/4 c)
1 t salt (2 t)
1/2 t ground black pepper (1 t)
1 t sugar (2 t)
1/2 t dry minced parsley (1 t)
1/4 t mayonnaise (1/2 t)
1/4 t Dijon mustard (1/2 t)

Vegetables:

1/2 large cucumber, peeled, cut into 1-inch wedges
1 large ripe tomato, cut into large cube
1/2 large sweet onion, blossom cut through poles

Combine the marinade ingredients, except for the oil, in a Good Seasons bottle; cover and shake well. Let stand 10 minutes; add oil and shake vigorously. [The mustard and mayonnaise help stabilize the suspension.] Combine vegetables in a serving bowl. Pour marinade over vegetables, combine, and refrigerate 2 hours before serving, turning occasionally. Keeps well in refrigerator for a day or two.

REVIEW Bergama Cafe Durham NC [Closed August, 2013]

Bergama Cafe
3520 Hillsborough Road
Durham NC
(919) 383-0300‎
http://bergamacafe.com/

In a word, delish!
3.5/5 stars - $$ (to use Greg Cox 's shorthand ratings)

Recorded 12-17-09
[After dragging myself to the finish line on a very burdensome writing project last night, I was exhausted, unkempt, grizzled, and hungry. I took son Jon to Tommies for smokes and a Coke, and easily determined we were both hungry, and a Middle Eastern supper at a new neighborhood restaurant was appealing. About 8:30 we were seated. The place was empty. Sad, and so unfitting. They have wonderful food and are lovely and interesting people. He's from Chechnya  and his wife is from Turkey.}

The venue: Was a Burger King for many years on heavily traveled Hillsborough Rd near I-85 and US 15-501. Was converted to a "serious" sit down place a few years ago, and has yet to foster a place for a great restaurant, although the need is real for that part of town.

Me: Dolmas and Roasted Potatoes with vegetable gravy - Excellent $12, including sides. Glass of Sutter Home White Zin, $4.25, $20 with tax and tip.
Sides Pizza Bread Sticks/herb-seasoned EVOO - V. Good
Salad Bar One Trip - Limited but Excellent

The stuffed cabbage rolls (5 were presented) were lovely, as were the roasted potatoes. The whole was covered with a flavorsome gravy of cooked cabbage, onions, and the pan gravy. The seasonings were subtle, peppery, and aromatic. The salad bar was limited in offerings but all the ingredients were fresh and crisp. Very tasty ranch dressing. The bread sticks were baked from pizza dough, and so were nicely chewy. A plate of flavored oil on the side for dipping was provided. More bread was offered later in the meal. Service was friendly and attentive (we were initially the only diners) although our waitress seemed new and knew little about the menu.

Wine list (on a Corona placard!) is brief and laughable with the odd surprise. Greek vin ordnaire at $8/glass. "Straight from Greece" it says. Where else for Greek wine?

Jon: Gyro platter. Very attractively sliced and folded roast meat, arranged on a bed of grilled pitas. $10.95; $16.00 with tax and tip. Sides: Bread sticks, salad bar, rice pilaf,  steamed vegetable medley - Jon pronounced it all excellent. He drank ice water. A Best Buy.
 
This place needs some changes to succeed. It would be a shame if tasty ethnic fare doesn't succeed. Bergama needs menu design advice; a better web presence; a better street impact to attract diners from heavy traffic on street. Better wine list. Ethnic clarity of offerings. Pizza? Italian? Greek? Turkish? "Middle Eastern". Menu needs to educate better.

RAVE: Nicoise-Coquillo Olives

I first heard about this olive on the PBS program Spain On the Road Again, that follows the travels and feasting of  an American cook who lived there as a youth (Mario Batali), an American actress (Gwyneth Paltrow), an American food writer (Mark Bittman), and a stunningly beautiful Spanish TV actress who trained partly at UNC-Wilmington and who worked in the US (Claudia Bassols). They were joined in this episode set in Barcelona by American composer, singer, and friend of Paltrow, the neurasthenic Michael Stipe.

They spent the better part of the evening tapas tasting at the "best tapas restaurant in the World" in the company of the couple who founded and operate the place. The husband is apparently an icon in the Spanish cooking hagiography and is a damn fine cook, quiet leader and inspiring teacher of sous, waitstaff, etc. by the looks of it.

One of the many courses was a selection of olives. As one who grew up with pitted ripe California olives on his fingers, this was an eye opener. So many kinds! So many flavors and curing and spicing. I was most engaged by tiny olives that are mottled green-brown-black. The pits seem almost as large as the fruits. The flesh is a bit spicy, sour, and fruity. They are often available on the Mediterranean appetizer bar at a Durham megamart. An essential component of salade nicoise (salad in the Nice fashion).

A warm olive assortment is a nice way to dress up a plain breakfast of creamy cottage cheese and buttered rye toast.

Review: Fried Chicken at C&H Cafeteria, Northgate Mall, Durham, NC CLOSED JAN 3, 2023

CLOSED JAN 3, 2023

Summary: Clean, friendly, healthful. Chicken, dy-no-mite! Butter beans, extra yummy. Cheap.

Visit: About 1:00 PM, Tuesday 6 Oct 09

Physical: Located in a strip mall annex to Northgate Mall, reached from Guess Rd. Plenty of adjacent free, lighted, patrolled parking. 1720 Guess Rd., Durham, NC 27701

Ambiance: The entry way leads you past a wall that shields the dining room from the mall traffic. About 10 guests were queued in front of me. As you walk toward the beginning of the food line, you walk past it in review but backwards of course. The line moves quickly but no one is rushed. Cute trick.

Lots of tempting items are displayed. Emphasis on fresh and wholesome. Wide variety of salads, entrees, and desserts. Pies aplenty. Friendly, helpful, cheerful wait staff. Very active oversight and light-touch, hands-on management. A winning combo!

The food: Always seeking prime fried chicken, and based on foodie blog reports, I ordered the chicken. Dark or white? "Dark" yielded a good sized hindquarter. Added a side of butter beans. Ice water with lemon to drink. [Some ice water glasses already had a lemon wedge.]

The chicken was among the best I have ever tasted. Stone fresh. Mild flavor and juicy. No sign of overchilling. Apparently, not brined. Good for those such as myself who restrict sodium intake. Thin crispy coating that sticks to the chicken. A real feat. The butter beans were fresh-tasting, not canned, tender but not mushy or grainy, and free of added fat.

C&H management has sought and found great provisions and people who know how to cook and serve excellent food to a mass audience.

The dining room was busy, nicely appointed in a funeral-home-modern sort of way, and kept spotlessly clean by an attentive bus staff. Lots of conversations were held in quiet tones, but the room didn't sound or feel dead. The tableware was heavy and clean, and came wrapped in a spotless cloth napkin. A thoughtful touch.

The tariff: Al a carte, of course. The tab, $4.78 with tax, no tip. Should have left one, now that I think about it. Will double it next time, in partial recompense.

Next: Must try the chicken livers on rice! And the fried whiting looked fine.