Review: El Cuscatleco - A Salvadoran Eye Opener

Yesterday, a Sunday, about 5 pm, returning home along I-40 from the grand-girls dance recital in Smithfield (too cute for words), Laura and I were well beyond peckish. I found a discount coupon (one day expired) for El Cuscatleco (pronounced just like it looks -- but get ready for the second-to-last syllable *TLECK*) and figured it was on the way home off US-Hwy 15-501. Not much open on Sunday night but they are.
Their place is located in a low brick building set back from the street with parking in front. Just east of 15-501 at 4212 Garrett Rd. Durham NC

http://elcuscatleco.com/

They have an extensive menu, including slo-n-lo dishes such as beef stews. They feature Salvadoran dishes, and the place is finished with many Salvadoran flags, folk artifacts and assorted chatzkes and chazarei. Prominent are the drink specials (Monday, Margaritas at 1.50!). We appeared to be the only non-Salvadorans there. Things seemed pretty busy for a Sunday night. Mostly, families with kids dining out.
The salsa and tortilla chips complimentary starters featured a delicious fresh tomato salsa with a nice kick. All their dishes strike you with their freshness and wholesomeness. Laura ordered the grilled bistek in the house marinade (a flavorsome skirt, $9.95) . Savory and sweet, citrus-based with a bit of heat. Luscious fresh salad of tomatoes, avocado, lettuce, onions and sour cream to top the tortillas. The Salvadoran tortillas were very different from Mexican ones. Thick, steamy, and fragrant with deep corn goodness. Fine renderings of arroz and frijoles refrito on the side as usual.
 

Mojarra frita

My entree was the mojarra frita, a whole fried fish, in this case, tilapia. The fish is simply scored deeply to admit the hot fat, dusted in flour and seasonings, and deep fried. A beautiful presentation on a huge platter. I ate less than half, and took home a box heavy with leftovers. The fish was moist, sweet, and nicely seasoned. Tilapia is mild and benefits from a bit of cayenne and cumin. The sides were the same as Laura's. Also, $9.95.
We both enjoyed a Negra Modelo ($3), served with the obligatory lime wedge and a nicely frosted mug. The beer was not too cold and tasted perfect with the food.
The atmosphere was festive with the typical confused assault of the three - THREE - different TVs, and non-stop Hispanic singing (which I enjoy) from a CD player somewhere, but conversation was not strained. Service was friendly, attentive, and competent. They did accept the expired coupon and the owner welcomed us to return with the spare expired coupon. He told me they have been at that location 10 years! Under the radar. They had a second place on N. Roxboro Rd in Durham but it has closed.
A truly wonderful meal. 3-1/2 stars, one dollar sign.

General Purpose Seasoning and Dry Rub

Recorded March 21, 2009. In use for many years. Reformulated 2011 to reduce salt by half and later rice starch was added to maintain free-flowing property.

1 T kosher salt (see Note)
1 T dried thyme
1 T ground black pepper
1 T granulated garlic

Combine ingredients by milling a few seconds in a spice grinder. As a rub, season both sides of meat thoroughly (about 1 t per lb) rubbing it in. Apply the rub about 1 to 2 hours before cooking, depending on thickness. Use the rub on pork ribs ribs, pork loin, pork tenderloin and pork butt. Also good on roast chicken, grilled chicken, roast turkey, fried chicken livers, omelets, and grilled beef. 
Variations: Dust a little ground fennel, five-spice powder, cumin, paprika, or cayenne on the meat after applying the rub. Note: Kosher salt is bulkier than table salt. If table salt is used, reduce salt to 2/3 T.

Pan-Roasted Porterhouse

Suggested by a recipe at Cook's Country™ for slow-roasted beef. The salt marinade is similar to the method for "koshering" beef -- but the loin is never used. The salt both flavors and tenderizes by dissolving muscle proteins, mostly myosin, I would guess. Prepared January 23, 2010.

Cross-Cut Porterhouse Roast 

with Haricot Vert and Roasted Potatoes

2 inch thick Angus Porterhouse, about 2-1/2 lbs

1 T olive oil

1 T kosher salt

freshly ground pepper, to taste

garlic granules, to taste

Sauce

1/4 c brandy
2 T butter
2 T capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped
1 t fresh thyme
1/2 c light cream

To cook at 6 pm, start at 10 am. Rub salt evenly on all surfaces, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate about 6 hours. Let steak warm to room temperature. Wipe surfaces carefully with a paper towel to remove excess salt and dry the meat so that it will brown and crust in the oil. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Saute in 12 inch oven proof sizzling hot saute pan over medium-high heat in olive oil. Will be smoke, so turn on range hood. About 5 minutes a side, until nicely colored. Transfer to the middle rack of the oven to finish cooking. For medium-rare, remove to a platter when temperature in the middle of the steak reads 118 to 120 degrees F (about 48 C). Tent with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. While meat is resting, prepare the sauce. Deglaze pan with brandy, then whisk in the butter, a bit at a time. Off heat, add the seasonings and whisk in the cream. Bring to a slow boil for a few minutes to reduce. Carve into thin slices across the grain by turning pieces of the steak on the side (see Note). Coat slices in sauce and arrange on a dinner platter. Serves 4. Suggested sides:

haricot vert braised in butter and tarragon
oven-roasted yellow potato wedges with rosemary and olive oil

Note: Muscle fascicles in the loin run mostly front-to-back and Porterhouse steaks are cut transversely. Thus to produce the tenderest mouthful of beef, it should be cut en face. That is, bone out the steak, cut into large pieces, turn sideways, and cut thin slices across the surface with a very sharp knife. This also separates the well done from the rare. Take your pick.