Italian Meatloaf

Savory and satisfying, this recipe makes a lot. Modified from a recipe broadcast on Cook's Country (PBS TV).

Sauce
1 T olive oil
1/4 c thin garlic slices
1 28-oz can crushed tomatoes
1 15-oz can tomato sauce
1/4 t red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon table salt

Meatloaf

1 sleeve saltines

3/4 c whole milk

2 large eggs

1 lb lean ground beef

1 lb sweet Italian sausage, removed from casing

2 oz (1 c) grated Parmesan cheese

1 t granulated garlic

1 t dry oregano

1/2 t table salt

1/4 t ground black pepper

3 T chopped fresh basil

Heat the oil in 3-quart saucepan over medium to 350 F. Add the garlic slices and cook until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Stir in the rest of the sauce ingredients, bring to a fast simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Set aside covered, to keep warm. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 F. Treat a 9 X 13-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Place saltines in large zip-lock bag, seal bag, and crush saltines to fine crumbs with rolling pin or a heavy pan. Whisk milk and eggs in large bowl and stir in the crumbs. Let the mixture stand for about 5 minutes and then whisk it to form a smooth paste. Add beef, sausage, Parmesan, and the seasonings and mix with your hands until thoroughly combined. Transfer beef mixture to the prepared baking dish. Wet your hands, then shape into 9 X 5-inch rectangle. The top should be flat and meatloaf should be about 1-1/2 inches tall. Pour sauce over the meatloaf. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and place on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any spills. Bake until meatloaf registers 160 F in the middle, about 65 to 75 minutes. Remove from oven, uncover, and rest it for 15 minutes. With 2 spatulas, lift the meatloaf onto a cutting board. With a flat spoon, remove excess grease from the sauce. Cut the meatloaf into 1-inch slices, return them to the sauce, and garnish with the basil. Yields about 8 servings.

Grilled Fontina on Tuscan Bread

Grilled Fontina on Tucan Bread

First prepared September, 2009. Tuscan-style bread, due to the absence of salt to tame the yeast, has large gas bubbles. The melted cheese oozes through these openings and browns and crisps when it contacts the hot griddle, creating a special flavor and texture. A savory roasted garlic spread and extra-virgin olive oil add to the experience.

2 slices Tuscan-style bread (Trader Joe is good)
2 T roasted garlic spread
2 oz Fontina cheese slices
about 1 oz extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium high. Cover both inner surfaces of the bread with the garlic spread. Brush olive oil on the outside of one slice, and place oil side down in the skillet. Layer the cheese slices on that slice, position the second slice on top and brush it with oil. Press down firmly with a spatula as the sandwich cooks. When crispy and lightly colored on the first side, turn and cook the second, pressing firmly as it cooks.  (Note: Tuscan bread has no sugar and thus doesn't readily caramelize.)

Chicken and Rice, Italian style

Easy to make, satisfying one-pot supper adapted from Lidiasitaly.com. 

1-1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 medium onion, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 medium carrots, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 ribs celery, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 plump garlic cloves, peeled
1/3 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 T kosher salt, divided
1 bay leaf
1 c dry white wine
5 c hot chicken or turkey stock, plus more if needed
2 c short-grain rice, such as arborio, carnaroli, or paella
2 T butter, cut in pieces
3 T chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for passing

Trim any excess fat from the thighs, and cut into 1-inch chunks. Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into a fine-textured pestata. Add the oil to a large heavy saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. Stir in the pestata, and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pestata has dried and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken pieces and the bay leaf, and the remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Turn the chicken in the pan until browned all over, about 4 minutes. Raise the heat, pour in the white wine, and cook, stirring and scraping up the browned bits in the pan, until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Add the hot stock with stirring, and then all the rice. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to keep the rice bubbling gently. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until both the rice and the chicken chunks are fully cooked and the consistency is creamy. Off heat, remove the bayleaf, stir in the butter pieces vigorously until thoroughly combined, then stir in the parsley and the grated cheese. Serve immediately in pasta bowls, passing additional grated cheese at the table. Serves 4 to 6.

Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms

Developed January, 2005. Dried porcini are available online in bulk at modest prices. They keep forever.

1 oz dried porcini mushrooms
2 c boiling water

2-1/2 c water
2 t commercial chicken or vegetable stock concentrate
1 T porcini powder (optional)
2 T olive oil plus some as garnish
1 T minced garlic
1/4 c minced shallot
1/2 c minced yellow onion
1/2 c dry white wine

1 c arborio rice

3/4 c Parmesan cheese, grated

Combine mushrooms and boiling water in a heat-proof container. Stir occasionally. After 20 minutes, drain and squeeze the mushrooms, saving the broth. Chop the mushrooms coarsely and set aside. Combine the reserved mushroom broth, water, mushroom powder, and concentrate in a saucepan. Bring to a boil with stirring and keep hot. In a 12-inch skillet  heat the oil over medium and add the aromatics. Sauté until soft, add the mushrooms with stirring, and when warmed through, mix in the rice. Continue to stir until the rice turns milky, add the wine and continue cooking until the wine is absorbed. Add enough hot stock to just cover the rice and stir. As stock is absorbed add more gradually,  stirring between additions. When all the stock has been added, reduce heat, cover, and cook until the moisture is absorbed. Stir well as you add the cheese, drizzle on olive oil and serve. Serves 4. For vegetarian, replace chicken stock with vegetable stock.

Balsamic Vinaigrette for Salad Caprese

Salad Caprese

Developed July, 2016 from internet recipes. This simple salad combines slices of mozzarella and ripe tomatoes, garnished with a chiffonade of basil leaves, perfect as part of a light summer meal. Caprese refers to the Isle of Capri.

1 oz balsamic vinegar
1/2 T Dijon mustard
1/2 t mashed garlic
1/4 t salt
1/4 t freshly-ground pepper
3 oz extra-virgin olive oil

Add the first five ingredients to a jar with tight-fitting lid. Shake to disperse, add oil, and shake well to disperse. Drizzle sparingly on the assembled salad. Yields about 1/2 cup. Store unused portion cold. Rewarm to room temperature and shake well before next use.

Laura's Italian Wedding Soup

Lacinato kale (source: Park Seed)

Developed January, 2016 by Laura on a cold winter day. Comes together quickly using frozen meatballs. Lacinato kale (also known as Italian or black kale) has been cultivated since Roman times. It gives Italian soups such as this and minestrone their special character. Its sturdy texture stands up to cooking.

4 T olive oil
1 large white onion, chopped
1 large scallion, chopped
2 large carrots, cubed
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 T garlic, minced
8 oz mushrooms, sliced
1 bunch of Lacinato kale, rinsed, stems removed, cut into 2 inch pieces
1 t dry oregano
1 t dry thyme
2 bay leaves
6 c chicken stock
4 oz small pasta, uncooked
1 lb frozen cooked meatballs, homemade or commercial
salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste

Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy Dutch oven. Add the onion, scallion, carrot, celery and garlic, and a teaspoon of salt. Cover, lower heat, and sweat until they soften, about six minutes. Add the mushrooms, oregano, and thyme, and continue cooking a few minutes more. Stir in the stock, bay leaves, and meatballs. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves, stir in the kale. Cook five minutes. Add the pasta, and cook until the kale is tender and the pasta is al dente, 7 to 10 minutes more. Adjust seasoning. Serves six as a main course. Pair with crusty bread.

Bruschetta

Recorded Sept, 2014. Thin slices of crusty bread are brought to new purpose with heat, olive oil, and garlic.

100 g of baguette or similar loaf, cut into 1 cm crosswise slices.
20 ml olive oil, divided
2 ml granulated garlic
2 ml salt

Heat half the oil in a heavy 25 cm skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Using tongs, dip each slice into oil on both sides and arrange in skillet. Sprinkle salt and garlic on top. When toasting progresses, flip each piece, adding more oil and seasoning. Continue grilling and turning until well colored on both sides. Serves two. Use in spicy stews, soups, dinner salads, vegetable compotes, or as a place to spread tomato salsas, hummus, olive salad, or to top soups or dinner salads.

Quick and Easy Tortellini in Basil Pesto

Prepared May, 2014. In a recent tasting study, America’s Test Kitchen decided that a shelf-stable product by the leading Italian pasta maker got highest marks. Marrying this product with a prepared pesto sauce yields a delicious meal quickly.

3 oz (85 g) Three-Cheese Tortellini (Barilla™ is recommended)
2 oz (56 g) basil pesto sauce (Kirkland™)
grated Parmesan cheese as desired

Bring a quart (liter) of salted water to a rapid boil in a sauce pan. Stir in the tortellini, lower the heat to a fast simmer, and cook uncovered 11 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain the pasta in a collander, letting the hot water fill a serving bowl to heat it. move the colander, dump the water carefully, add the pesto to warm briefly, and then the drained pasta. Toss gently, plate and top with cheese. Serves one, but scales up to 4 servings easily.

Zesty Italian-Style Salad Dressing

Developed June, 2007. Similar to a popular bottled dressing, but homemade.

3 oz vegetable oil
1 T red wine vinegar
1 T apple cider vinegar
1 oz water
1/4 t minced garlic
1/4 t dry Italian herbs
1/4 t fresh ground pepper
1/2 t salt
1/4 t paprika
1 t dried minced onion
1/8 t dry mustard powder
1/8 t red pepper flakes

Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a 8 oz bottle or jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to combine and let stand 5 minutes. Add the oil, and shake vigorously to combine before using. Store cold. Yields about 8 servings.

Linguine with Clams and Broccoli in Wine Sauce

Developed March, 2013. Variation on a Family Favorite. The dish comes together very quickly, boiling the pasta being the slowest step.

4 T olive oil, divided
2 large cloves garlic, sliced thinly
3 6.5 oz cans minced or chopped clams with reserved clam juice
2 c broccoli florets cut into bite-size pieces
6 oz dry white wine
1/2 T fish sauce (optional)
1/4 c chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 lb linguine, cooked al dente, about 7 minutes
1/3 c grated Parmesan cheese

Start four quarts of salted water to boil over high heat in a large saucepan. Arrange broccoli pieces on a plate, mist with water, season with salt, cover, and microwave on high for 5 minutes. Uncover and set aside to cool. Start the pasta cooking and heat a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet over medium. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil. When shimmering, add garlic, cook 30 seconds, and add the wine. Reduce by half, add the canned clams and clam juice, fish sauce, and the broccoli. Heat to a fast simmer and add the drained linguine, reserving some pasta water. Cook slowly, tossing gently with tongs until most of liquid is absorbed, adding reserved pasta water as needed. Drizzle on the remaining olive oil and a few drops of fish sauce. Sprinkle the cheese, and gently toss with tongs to combine. Serves 4 to 6.

Gnocchi in Brown Butter and Sage

Adapted from Marc Forgione's recipe on Food Network.

1 lb store-bought gnocchi
6 T unsalted butter
1/2 to 1 t crushed red pepper
6 sage leaves, thinly sliced
1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese

Sauce
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. Cook, stirring, until the butter develops brown flecks and smells nutty. Watch it closely to keep the butter solids from burning. Remove from the heat.
Finish
Bring 3 quarts of lightly-salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi, reduce the heat to a slow boil, and wait until they float to the surface. Simmer a minute more. Taste one to make sure it's cooked through. Rewarm the brown butter over medium-low heat. Scoop the gnocchi from the pot with a spider or slotted spoon, transfer to the skillet and toss until some of the brown-butter flecks stick to the gnocchi. Add the red pepper flakes, sage and a few tablespoons of the gnocchi cooking water to form a sauce. Toss again. Add more gnocchi water if needed. Off heat, mix in half of the cheese. Divide among bowls and top with the remaining cheese. Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as part of an multicourse meal.

Meat Sauce for Pasta

Prepared and recorded September 2, 2012.

2 c yellow onion, finely chopped
1 c mushroom, finely chopped
2 t minced garlic, divided
about 3 T olive oil
8 oz lean ground chuck
6 oz pork sausage
6 oz mellow red table wine (e.g,, Sangiovese)
2 T mushroom powder
2 T ketchup
1/8 t crushed red pepper
2 T tomato paste
1 T onion powder
8 oz beef stock
1/2 t ground cumin
1 28-oz can prepared marinara sauce (Trader Joe's™ is good)
water as needed to adjust thickness

In a heavy 12-inch skillet over low-medium heat, heat 1 T oil over medium, and add the onions. Cook, covered, with occasional stirring for about 6 minutes until soft and lightly colored. Set aside in a bowl. Wipe out the skillet, raise the heat to medium high, add 1 T oil, and add the mushrooms. Saute until lightly colored, add 1 t garlic and cook until garlic is fragrant. Add mushrooms and garlic to the bowl with the onions. Wipe the skillet, add the last 1 T of oil, break the sausage into small pieces, mix in the ground beef, cooking gently, continuing to break the meat into small pieces. Take care not to overcook the meat. Add tomato paste, crushed red pepper and the wine. Reduce the wine to about one-third. Add beef stock, mushroom powder, ketchup, cumin, and onion powder. Simmer for 10 minutes. scraping the pan to release any brown bits. Finally, stir in the marinara sauce, and simmer for an hour, covered loosely. Stir occasionally, adding water if sauce becomes too concentrated. Yields about 2 quarts of sauce. Freeze extras. Well suited to potato gnocchi, pappardelle, or fried polenta rounds.

Tuna Pasta Salad

Recorded July 22, 2012. Adapted from Jeremy and Suzanne's pasta salad dish.

8 oz penne rigate, cooked until tender in salted water
1 c grape tomatoes, halved
6 oz mozzarella, cut in cubes
1/4 c thinly sliced red onion
1 can Italian tuna packed in olive oil
2 T flat parsley or basil, minced
2 T lime juice
3 to 4 T vinaigrette dressing
salt and pepper to taste

Chill the drained pasta and place in a large bowl. Fold in the additions and then fold in the dressings. Adjust the seasonings. Serve cold as a light lunch or as part of a summer supper.  Variations:  For some crunch, toss in a handful of garlic croutons or bite-size pieces of iceberg lettuce.

Meatballs, Peppers, Mushrooms, and Onions in Marinara Sauce (for Pasta)

Recorded May 1, 2011. Prepared and modified more than a hundred times over the decades. A Family Favorite. The recipe is versatile. Instead of meatballs, the meat might be roast or pan-fried chicken, or Italian sweet sausage, in or out of the skin, or left-over spare ribs. Pasta can be spaghetti, fettuccini, rotini, rigatoni, or what you prefer, but larger forms work better with this robust, flavor-packed sauce.

about 2 oz olive oil
24 to 28 oz package frozen meatballs
2 c sweet red pepper, coarsely chopped
6 oz white mushrooms, wiped clean, and quartered
1 c yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 T minced garlic
1-1/2 T tomato paste
2 t Italian dry herb mixture
1 t fennel seed
1/4 t crushed red pepper
3/4 c dry red wine
1 28-oz can whole Italian tomatoes, crushed by hand
1 28-oz can prepared marinara sauce
1/2 c water
salt, pepper, and sugar

In a 6-quart heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the oil until almost smoking. Saute the peppers until they begin to char on the edges. Stir in the mushrooms. When they have darkened, add the onions and garlic, saute for a minute more. Add the meatballs, and saute until colored, adding oil as needed.  Push back to clear a space, add a tablespoon of oil and the tomato paste and seasonings. Heat until fragrant and mix with the vegetables. Add the wine, scrape the bottom of the pan, and reduce by half. Stir in the tomato products, and rinse the cans with the water, and add. Bring the mixture to a fast simmer, cover, and cook for an hour or more, stirring occasionally. Add salt, pepper, and sugar to taste. Dresses two pounds (900 g) of dry pasta, cooked al dente.

Veal Saltimbocca

Recorded October 16, 2011. Saltimbocca means 'jump into the mouth', a tribute to its speed of cooking and savor.

butter
olive oil
8 oz (240 g) veal scallops
about 20 fresh sage leaves
about 1 oz (30 g) prosciutto, sliced paper thin

Pound the veal gently between sheets of plastic film until about 1/8 inch thick. Cut into pieces about 3 x 1 inch. Place a comparable-size piece of prosciutto and then a sage leaf on top of the veal, and secure with a toothpick. Assemble all the veal pieces before beginning the cooking. Heat a saute pan over medium heat and add butter and oil. When bubbling is over, add a few pieces of veal and saute on one side for a minute or two. Turn over each piece and finish cooking. Set aside to keep warm until the whole batch is cooked, adding more butter and oil as needed. Deglaze the pan with a little brandy or dry sherry and pour over the meat. Remove the toothpicks!  Serve over couscous and pair with a green salad for a light supper. Chicken breast cutlets can be substituted for veal if desired. Serves 2 to 3.

Shiitake Mushroom and Leek Risotto

Prepared July 23, 2011. This method is much easier than the classic preparation. Rather than add the liquid a bit at a time and stir, you add it all at once, and stir it at the end. The product rivals the more labor-intensive method. Note the high ratio of liquid to rice. Some batches of rice may need even more than this. If not creamy enough, add a bit more stock at the end and stir.

4 T olive oil, divided
1 cup of dry shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted
3/4 c sliced leeks, white part only
4 or 5 sprigs fresh thyme
2 T minced garlic
1 c Arborio rice
1/2 c dry white wine
2 T brandy
3 c hot chicken stock + 1 c of the reserved mushroom stock
1 t salt
1 T mushroom powder
1/4 T freshly ground pepper
1/4 c shredded Parmesan cheese

To reconstitute the mushrooms, put them in a bowl and pour 2 cups very hot water over them, cover and set aside to cool. Trim and discard the tough stems from the mushrooms [Hint: good kitchen shears make short work of this]. Chop into bite-size pieces. Heat a 12 inch metal skillet over medium. Add 3 tablespoons of oil. When hot, add the mushrooms and leeks. Saute until the vegetables are nicely browned. Stir in the rice and the last tablespoon of oil. Cook with frequent stirring until the rice is lightly colored. Add the sprigs of thyme, the garlic, the wine and brandy. Heat until most of the liquid is lost. Add the salt, pepper, seasonings, and ALL the hot stock. Mix well, lower heat to a fast simmer, and cover. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring twice during cooking. Remove the thyme sprigs. Stir in the Parmesan. 
Pairs nicely with thin slices of roast chicken breast or pan-roasted salmon filets. Serves 6.

Roasted Wild Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto

Prepared March 27, 2011.

4 T olive oil, divided
3/4 lb assorted wild mushrooms (e.g, oyster, king oyster, shiitake, morel)
1/2 lb asparagus
1/2 c sliced leeks, white part
4 or 5 sprigs fresh thyme
2 T minced garlic, divided
1 c Arborio rice
1/2 c dry white wine
2 T brandy
4 c hot chicken stock (or, for vegan, vegetable broth)
1 t salt
1 T mushroom powder
1/4 T freshly ground pepper
1/4 c shredded Parmesan cheese (omit for vegan)

Cut the mushrooms into bite-size pieces, place in an 8x8 inch metal pan. Trim the asparagus and roll-cut into 1-1/2 inch lengths. Add to the pan, along with the leeks, 1 T garlic, and thyme. Drizzle 3 T oil on the vegetables, season well with freshly ground pepper and 1/2 t salt, and turn to coat. Roast at 425 degrees F for 20 minutes, turning when half done. In a 12-inch skillet, heat the remaining oil over medium until it shimmers. Add the rice and cook with occasional stirring until it's lightly colored, about 5 minutes. Add 1 T garlic and heat 30 seconds. Add the wine and brandy, and cook until absorbed  Remove the thyme, and stir in the hot roast vegetables, and seasonings. Add enough stock to almost cover the rice. Continue cooking, adding hot stock as needed to maintain the level until all the stock has been added, about 20 minutes. Cover, lower heat until all the moisture is absorbed. Stir in the cheese. Pair with thin slices of roast chicken breast.

Vinaigrette (for Sub Sandwiches)

Recorded June 14, 2008. Meant to emulate Dominick's hot sub sandwich dressing.

2 T (30 g) apple cider vinegar
2 T (30 g) red wine vinegar
1/2 t (3 g) Dijon mustard
1/2 t (3 g) mayonnaise
1 t salt
1/2 t ground black pepper
1/2 t garlic powder
1 t dry mixed Italian herbs 

3/4 c (160 g) vegetable oil

Add all ingredients except oil to a squeeze bottle and shake to dissolve. Add the oil. Shake vigorously to disperse oil. Squirt generously onto sandwich before slicing.

Hot Sub Sandwiches

Inspired by Dominicks, Ann Arbor, Michigan, 1960s. According to local lore, the Moynihan brothers who jointly ran this place bitterly fought on the issue of pizza delivery. Tom split to found Domino's®. The other brother stayed behind to make the best sub sandwiches I ever ate. A Proustian memory. Recorded June 14, 2008, after decades of making these. The hard part is finding good bread but thankfully it's getting easier.
 
Hot

narrow loaf of crusty Italian bread, cut lengthwise 
sliced boiled ham
Genoa salami
shredded mozzarella cheese 
Parmesan cheese

Cold 

shredded iceberg lettuce
sliced ripe tomatoes
red onion, thinly sliced into rounds
pepperoncini, shredded
Italian herbs

Place rack about 8 inches below broiler. Place bread cut side up on cookie sheet. Layer ham and salami generously on both halves. Top with cheeses. Broil open face until cheese melts and browns and the meats begin to crisp. Cover the bottom half generously with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and pepperoncini. Sprinkle lightly with herbs and dress with vinaigrette. Cover with top half, press down firmly, cut, and serve. Serves 2 to 4 depending on size of loaf. Cabbage salad makes an ideal side.

Rigatoni alla Pastora (Shepherd style)

Not mine but too good not to record. Transcribed from Lidia Bastianich's PBS-TV broadcast January, 2011. Simple, fast, and delicious. The sausage brings most of the flavor. Fresh herbs pick up the rest.

1 lb sweet or hot Italian sausage, removed from casing, and crumbled
1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil [Lidia used 1/2 c]
1/2 t crushed red pepper (peperoncino) Omit with hot sausage
1 lb rigatoni
1/2 t kosher salt
2 c whole-milk ricotta
1/4 c grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 c loosely-packed fresh basil leaves torn into shreds (or 1/2 c parsley and cilantro, mixed)

Sauce: Heat a heavy large saucepan over medium-high, add the oil and then the peperoncino for a few seconds. Add the crumbled sausage, and cook well with occasional turning, for about 10 minutes until well-browned and crispy. Variation: Add 1/2 c sliced sweet red pepper and 1 c sliced mushrooms to the sausage as it is cooking.
Pasta: As the sausage is browning, bring a pot of salted water to a boil, and add the pasta. Cook until just tender, about 11 minutes. Stir about 1/2 c of the pasta water into the cooked sausage to form a sauce. Transfer pasta with a slotted spoon to the sauce and continue cooking. Stir in the ricotta and Parmesan, and toss well, adding more pasta water as needed. Heat through. Scatter the herbs on top, drizzle on a bit more oil, and heap into warm bowls.