Hearty Beef Soup with Mushrooms, Barley, and Black Beans

Developed December, 2022, mostly from pantry ingredients.

1 c (20 g) dry porcini mushrooms
3 T olive oil, divided
6 oz button mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1/2 c carrots, coarsely chopped
1 c onion, coarsely chopped
2 T tomato paste
2 t garlic, minced
1 14.5-oz can Cuban-style black beans (Bush™ is good)
reserved mushroom stock
3 c water
1 T beef stock concentrate (Better than Bouillon™ is good)
1/2 c barley
2 c cabbage, coarsely chopped
1 t salt
1 t sugar
1/2 t ground black pepper
10 oz (300 g) cooked beef steak, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Rinse the mushrooms briefly and cover with 12 oz of very hot water. Stir and set aside for 30 minutes to hydrate and release their flavor into the soak water. Drain, reserving the liquid and chop them with a few pulses in a small food processor. Do the same for the fresh mushrooms. Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan and add the mushrooms. Sauté for a few minutes and then add the chopped carrots. Add more oil as needed to maintain a good sauté. After a few minutes, add the onions and garlic. Fry until onions start to soften. Mix in the beans including the pack water. Add the water, mushroom liquid, and the stock concentrate. Bring to a gentle boil and stir in the barley and cabbage. Cook covered, gently boiling until the cabbage is tender and the barley has swollen, about 20 to 30 minutes. Off heat, stir in the seasonings and beef. Warm through and serve. Rye bread and butter make good sides. Serves 4.

Kielbasa, Cabbage, and Potato Boil

Developed September, 2020. Fast, easy, and cheap supper.

1 lb kielbasa or similar sausage
1 T vegetable oil
4 c green cabbage, cut into wedges
1-1/2 lb (2-1/2 c) thin-skinned potatoes cut into 3/4 inch pieces
2 T beef stock concentrate (Better Than Bouillon™ is good)
6 peppercorns
2 qt water  

Cut the sausage into four pieces crosswise and then each piece in half lengthwise to yield 8 pieces. Heat the oil over medium in a six-quart saucepan.  Fry the sausage, cut face down until browned, flip and brown the other side. Add the cabbage, the stock concentrate, the peppercorns, and the water. Bring to a gentle boil.  Cook 5 minutes, add the potatoes (and onions if using), and continue cooking until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Add salt to taste. Serve in big bowls with some of the stock. Offer spicy mustard on the side. Variation: Add a medium yellow onion, quartered through the root, with the potatoes. Serves four generously.

Fresh Vegetable Noodle Soup

Quick first course in a soup and sandwich supper. Four fresh vegetables come together quickly to make a satisfying and nourishing soup.

1 T vegetable oil
6 oz napa cabbage, cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 c green onions, sliced into half-inch lengths
1/2 c sliced mushrooms
1/2 c coarsely chopped tomato
1 t minced garlic
1 qt water
1 packet tomato-noodle soup mix (Knorr™ is good)
1 t salt
1 t sugar
1/4 t freshly-ground black pepper
1/2 t fish sauce (use soy sauce for vegan)

Heat the oil to shimmering in a three-quart saucepan. Add the cabbage and sauté over medium-high for a few minutes. Stir in the mushrooms and green onions, cook a few minutes more, and add the tomato and garlic. When heated through, add the water, bring to a gentle boil and stir in the soup mix. Cook gently 10 minutes, add the seasonings, and adjust by tasting. Serves four.

Cabbage and Tomato Soup

A light, flavorsome soup makes an appealing breakfast. Add flour tortillas for a more substantial meal.

1 qt water
2 T tomato paste
6 oz Napa cabbage, cut into bitesize pieces
1 small ripe tomato, diced
1 t minced garlic
1 T vegetable oil
1/4 t crushed red pepper
1 t fish sauce (optional)
1 t salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper
3 green onions, cut on bias
1 t vinegar

Combine all ingredients except green onions and vinegar in three-quart saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Cook 15 minutes with occasional stirring. Add the green onions and continue cooking for 10 more minutes. Add vinegar and adjust seasoning to taste. Serves four.

Quick Vegetable Soup

This soup comes together quickly but delivers solid nourishment, savory taste, and appetizing aroma.

4 c water
1 oz tomato paste
2 c cabbage, coarsely chopped
1 medium tomato, diced

Seasonings

1 t ground cumin
1/2 t ground coriander
2 T chicken or vegetable stock concentrate
2 t salt
1 t sugar
1 t fish sauce
1 t vinegar

1 envelope prepared lentils (Madras brand)
1 medium russet potato

Microwave the potato 3 minutes. When cool, cut into 1/2 inch cubes, and set aside. Meanwhile, in a three-quart saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the cabbage and tomato and boil slowly 20 minutes. Stir in the seasonings, the lentils, and the potatoes. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serves four.

Blackened Baby Bok Choy

This easy, quick side dish for many rich main courses uses immature Asian cabbages. It's quick, tasty, and complex in flavor.

4 heads baby bok choy
2 t vegetable oil 

Seasonings

1 t dark sesame oil
2 t dark soy sauce
1 t mushroom soy
1 t rice wine
1 T water

Cut heads lengthwise, rinse, and dry. Heat vegetable oil in a stainless-steel skillet on medium high until it shimmers. Place cabbages cut side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes until well colored. Turn over, add seasonings and water, cover, and steam a few minutes until tender.

Corned-Beef Style Boiled Vegetables

Developed March, 2017. Unlike the traditional boiling method, when steam is used to cook corned beef, there may be little flavorsome stock in which to cook the accompanying vegetables. This recipe solves the problem by first creating a stock with beef base and the appropriate spices. Another approach was described earler.

2 qt water
1 T beef stock concentrate (Better than Bouillon™ is good)
2 T kosher salt
1/2 T brown sugar

Put the following in a large tea ball or wrap in cheese cloth.

2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2 allspice berries
1 t peppercorns
1 t coriander seeds

1 lb yellow potatoes, quartered lengthwise
10 oz (four medium) carrots, peeled, split lengthwise
1-1/2 lb (1/2 head) green cabbage, quartered through the core
8 oz frozen pearl onions, thawed

Bring water, concentrate, salt, and sugar to a slow boil, with stirring. Add the seasonings and simmer 10 minutes to form a cooking stock. Add potatoes, cabbage, and carrots. Cook at a fast simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the onions and heat through. Rewarm corned beef slices in the stock and serve in bowls. Variation: Replace or supplement the corned beef with lengths of Polish sausage.

Fried Rice with Spring Vegetables

Developed February, 2017. Other tender vegetables such as bean sprouts, sweet pepper, summer squash could be added or substituted based on local markets.

6 oz (175 g) young asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) lengths
6 oz (175 g) napa cabbage, bottoms trimmed, cut in half lengthwise, and then crosswise into 1/4 inch-wide (3 mm) strips
3 oz (85 g) yellow or white onion, sliced thinly through the poles
2 t (10 ml) garlic, minced
6 cups (1.5 l) steamed white rice, cooled over night
1/2 c (125 ml) frozen peas, thawed in cold water and drained
1 egg beaten with a fat pinch of salt, sugar and a splash of soy sauce (use egg substitute for vegan or omit)
vegetable oil, as needed
2 green onions, finely sliced across

Seasonings
2 t (10 ml) dark sesame oil
4 to 6 T (60 to 80 ml) soy sauce, to taste
1/2 t (2.5 ml) salt
1 t (5 ml) sugar

Heat a wok over medium heat to about 450 F (230 C). Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Set a kitchen timer to 10 minutes. When oil is hot, add asparagus and salt lightly. Stir fry for 2 minutes. Stir in cabbage, salt lightly, add oil as needed and stir fry 2 minutes. Add onion, fry 2 minutes more. Stir in rice, raise heat, and add a tablespoon of oil around the edge. Stir in seasonings. Fry about four minutes more, turning often, until lightly browned. Stir in peas, and drizzle on egg mixture. Cover and let stand one minute. Fold the egg into the rice. Garnish with the green onions. Serves four as part of a Chinese meal.

Cabbage, Potatoes, and Onions Braised in Corned Beef Stock

 

Red Cabbage, Golden Potatoes, & Pearl Onions

Developed December, 2016. After steaming a corned beef brisket, a very flavorsome liquid is left that captures the spice, herbs, and meatiness of the beef. This dish exploits this rich liquor to braise the vegetables that complete the meal.

small head of red cabbage, cut into eighths through the poles
1-1/2 lbs (680 g) yellow potatoes (Yukon Golds™, for example), cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces
8 oz (225 g) frozen pearl onions, thawed

Bring the steaming liquid reserved from preparing the corned beef to a slow boil. Add the cabbage, potatoes, and water sufficient to cover. Adjust heat to a slow boil and simmer 12 minutes. Add thawed onions. Cook another 6 minutes. With a slotted spoon or spider, move vegetables to a platter and serve with slices of corned beef. Serves four.

Chinese Noodle Soup with Pork Balls and Napa Cabbage

Prepared December, 2015. Pork, beef, and fish balls are popular to serve as appetizers or to add to soups. They are sold frozen in specialty Chinese food outlets, and make it easy to add flavor and protein to a dish. 

1 qt (1 L) water
4 oz (115 g) frozen stuffed pork balls
1 t (5 ml) fish sauce
1 T (15 ml) soy sauce
1 t (5 ml) sugar
1/2 t (2.5 ml) salt
1 t (5 ml) sesame oil
1 t (5 ml) grated fresh ginger root

6 oz (175 g) Napa cabbage, cut into 1 inch pieces

3-1/2 oz (100 g) dry Chinese wheat noodles

Bring water, frozen pork balls, and seasonings to a slow boil in a 3-quart saucepan. Cover, adjust heat to a fast simmer, and cook 10 minutes. Remove the pork balls to a plate to cool briefly. Cut each ball into thick slices, return to the pot, along with the cabbage, and return to a fast simmer. Cook 10 minutes with occasional stirring, and add the dry noodles. Cook five minutes more. Serves four as a first course in a Chinese meal, or two for a hearty meal. Variations: Omit meat balls. Substitute fish balls for the pork balls. Use bok choy rather than Napa cabbage.

Chinese Lion's Head Soup

Developed November, 2015 from an online recipe. Simple, fast, cheap, and so satisfying on a chilly night. Plump, flavorsome meat balls simmer in a light cabbage stock along with rice noodle squares. A one-pot supper ready in about 45 minutes.

Meatballs

1 lb (450 g) ground pork
1 large egg
2 T (30 ml) cornstarch
2 t (10 ml) dark sesame oil
1 T (15 ml) finely-minced fresh ginger root
1 t (5 ml) finely-minced garlic
1 t (5 ml) fish sauce
2 t (10 ml) salt
1 green onion, finely chopped

Soup

3 T (50 ml) vegetable oil
1-1/2 lb (700 g) napa cabbage
2 t (5 ml) ground mustard
4 T (60 ml) low-salt chicken concentrate (Better Than Bouillon™ is good) 
6 c (1.5 L) hot water
1 T (15 ml) soy sauce
4 oz (115 g) rice noodle squares, soaked in hot water until softened
2 t (10 ml) dark sesame oil
2 green onions, sliced across

Mix the meatball ingredients in a bowl using a wooden spoon in one direction until smooth and sticky. Chill for 30 minutes to firm up the meat mixture. Separate the cabbage into leaves, trim off tough bottoms, cut in half lengthwise and then across yielding eight pieces. Place noodles in a bowl, cover with hot tap water, and drain after 15 minutes. Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy six-quart saucepan on medium-high. When the oil shimmers, add the cabbage, stirring frequently, until cabbage is softened but not browned, about five minutes.  Add the hot water, the chicken concentrate, mustard powder, and soy sauce. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a fast simmer. Using a spoon and wet hands gently form 1 inch balls and drop them into the boiling soup, one by one. After adding the last ball, cover and simmer for five minutes. Stir in the drained rice noodles, replace cover and continue gentle cooking for another five minutes. Add salt according to taste, garnish with green onion, and drizzle on a little sesame oil. Serves four generously.

Ingredient: Vegetable Stock

Just as a rich chicken or veal stock forms the basis of many dishes in kitchens that use meats, a versatile vegetable stock does the same in the vegetarian kitchen. This recipe, which comprises about 40% vegetables initially, yields plenty of savory vegan stock for soups, broths, stews, gravies, and pan sauces. Developed Fall, 2015 from earlier experience with sauces and stocks.

6 qt (6 l) water
1 lb carrots, scrubbed and cut into large chunks
1 lb onions, skins on, trimmed and quartered
1/2 lb celery with leaves, coarsely chopped
1/4 lb mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and chopped
1/4 lb green cabbage, coarsely chopped
2 oz parsley sprigs
3 garlic cloves, crushed
10 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves

In a large pot set over high heat, add the water, vegetables, and seasonings. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Uncover and adjust the heat to produce a fast simmer. Cook for about 45 minutes until all is very tender and cooked through. Cover and let cool. Pour through a fine strainer into a pot, but do not press on the residue. Discard the solids. Refrigerate stock up to a week or freeze in convenient portions in plastic zip-lock bags.

Shrimp Egg Foo Yung

Recorded January 2, 2015. Prepared many times over the decades for family. Virtually carbohydrate free, rich in fiber, vitamins and minerals, and protein.

vegetable oil
6 oz (150 g) Napa cabbage, shredded crosswise
6 oz (150 g) mung bean sprouts, rinsed and drained
6 oz (150 g) yellow onion, thinly sliced through poles
6 oz (150 g) raw shrimp, shelled, and cut into bite-sized pieces
8 eggs
1 t sugar
2 t salt, divided
1 t sesame oil
1 T soy sauce
1 t fish sauce

In a round bottom wok over medium heat, heat a tablespoon of oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onions, season with a teaspoon of salt, and cook covered over moderate heat for three minutes. Add the cabbage, and continue cooking for two minutes more. Stir in the bean sprouts. Cook for a minute and mix in the shrimp meat. When lightly cooked, transfer the mixture to a shallow bowl to cool. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until frothy. Stir in the seasonings. When cool, fold the vegetable-shrimp mixture into the eggs.

To make an omelet, heat a tablespoon of oil in the wok until sizzling hot. Ladle in a half-cup of the egg mixture. The eggs should puff up. Lower heat to medium and cover. After about two minutes, gently turn the omelet, and cook the other side for a minute. Repeat the process. Makes 8 omelets. Serve with Egg Foo Yung Sauce with white rice on the side. 

Cabbage Rolls (Golumpki)

A large cabbage yields about 2 dozen golumpki

Recorded October 15, 2008. A Family Favorite.

Filling

1-1/4 lb lean ground beef
2-1/2 c cooked rice
1 egg, beaten
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 T minced garlic
2 T vegetable oil
salt and pepper

1 large head of green cabbage

Sauce

1 15-oz can tomato sauce
3 T brown sugar
1-1/2 T lemon juice
1 medium onion chopped
1/2 c green pepper chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Saute the onion and garlic in oil until soft and clear. In a large bowl combine with the other filling ingredients and set aside. Combine the sauce ingredients in a bowl, mix thoroughly and set aside Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cut deeply through the leaves at the base of the cabbage and place the head in boiling water. Cover and cook until a few outer leaves can be peeled back. Use a large fork in the base to steady the cabbage and tongs to peel back the leaves. As the leaves become softened, remove them to cool and drain and then peel away another group of outer leaves, continuing until all the usable leaves are softened and cooled. Chop the interior leaves and add to the sauce. Trim away the tough bottom of a leaf and place about 3 tablespoons of filling and roll and fold the cabbage leaf to form a tight package. Place in a baking pan, seam side down. Continue until all the filling has been used. Any spare leaves can be rolled and included in the pan. Pour sauce over rolls and cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Bake 60 min at 350 degrees F (177 C). Serve with steamed rice.  Hint: A second batch of sauce can be prepared in a saucepan by combining the ingredients and simmering for 30 minutes while the rolls bake.

Pork Chops Grilled and Braised with Onions, Apples, and Cabbage

Prepared August 30, 2007. Adapted from Emeril Lagasse, foodnetwork.com.

4 1-inch thick rib or loin pork chops, bone in
general purpose breader or seasoned flour
3 c yellow onions, thinly sliced through poles
2 medium cooking apples, peeled, cored, and sliced thick
2/3 lb cabbage, finely shredded
1 c apple cider
1 T cider vinegar
1 c chicken stock
6 pepper corns
2 bay leaves
1/2 T ground cumin
1/2 T paprika
chili powder
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 T vegetable oil, divided

Trim fat from chops, dust with chili powder and bread lightly. Add 1 T oil to a heavy oven-proof 12-inch skillet, heat over medium high, and grill chops until nicely browned on both sides but not cooked through. Remove to a plate. Heat 2 T oil, and cook onions and apples until lightly colored. Add the cabbage and fry a few more minutes. Add the liquids, raise the heat, and deglaze the pan. Return the chops to the pan and cover with the cooked vegetables, and add the seasonings.  Cover tightly and oven roast 1-1/2 hours at 325 degrees F, turning once half way through the cooking. Serve over steamed rice. Serves 4.

Cabbage Salad (Cole Slaw)

This slaw is almost mayonnaise free. This oil and vinegar recipe has been a family favorite for decades, even for kids (and their parents) that hate cole slaw. Rant: Who wouldn't hate the usual sweet, oily product?

2 c green or red cabbage, cored and finely shredded
scant 1/4 c O-T-C dressing

With a mandolin set to 1/8 inch, or a very sharp knife, finely shred the cabbage. Alternatively, use 2 cups of commercially-prepared "angel hair" cabbage. Transfer to a bowl.  Add the dressing in small amounts, tossing after each addition, until the cabbage is uniformly and lightly dressed. Chill and serve. Serves 3 to 4. Makes a nice topping for a BBQ sandwich.

Braised Cabbage

Recorded January 3, 2007 (at long last). A Family Favorite for decades.

1 medium head of cabbage, quartered, cored, and cut into 1 inch pieces
1/3 c low-fat soft margarine
salt, pepper, paprika to taste

Put cabbage in a 12-inch skillet, cover half way with water and salt lightly. Cover and bring to a moderate boil. Boil 8 minutes and drain thoroughly. Return drained cabbage to medium heat, let excess water cook off, stir in margarine and seasonings. Braise uncovered slowly about 10 minutes until tender, turning occasionally. Good as a side dish to many dishes. Can be added to vegetable soups or used in vegetarian burritos or mixed with buttered egg noodles. Serves 6.

Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage

Our internet consensus recipe. Developed January, 2005. Great side for rich meat dishes such as oven-braised spare ribs.

1 medium head red cabbage, coarsely shredded

1 onion, thinly sliced

4 strips bacon, coarsely chopped

2 medium apples, peeled, cored, & sliced

1/3 c apple cider vinegar

1/3 c water (approx)

1/4 c brown sugar

1 t salt

1/2 t dry mustard

1 large bay leaf

2 t caraway seeds

Fry bacon until crisp. Add onion, cook until lightly browned. Stir in the other ingredients. Cover and cook about 1/2 hour on medium-low heat, until tender. Remove bay leaf before serving.

Dorothy's Stewed Meatballs

Reconstructed by DrDaddy from Phyllis Pliskow's hand-written notes recalling Dorothy Magid's recipe. Recorded 18 November 2005.

Carrots, Onions, Celery, Peppercorns, and Allspice Simmer

Broth:

4 onions coarsely cut through the poles (Note: preserves structure)
4 large carrots coarsely cut
1 cup cut celery
about 1/4 c ketchup (see Note)
3 allspice berries + 6 peppercorns (put in cheese cloth or tea ball)
1 T salt

Place ingredients in an 6-quart pot, cover with water, bring to boil,
and then simmer covered until onions are soft.

Meatballs:

1 lb ground sirloin
1 large onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, mashed
about 1/2 cup matzoh meal, or dry bread crumbs, as needed to form balls 
salt, pepper, garlic powder

3 white potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 c cabbage, coarsely chopped

Form small meatballs with wet hands. When broth is ready,
raise heat to a boil and add the meatballs, cabbage, and potatoes.
Simmer slowly, partly covered until potatoes and cabbage are tender.
Remove spices before serving. Serves 6 or more.

 Dorothy with cigarette in Phyl's garden

Note:

That is, about what can be rinsed out of an "empty" bottle, or to taste. What triggered our mom to make this dish, which we all loved, was when the Heinz ketchup bottle reached the state where no amount of robust thumping of the overturned bottle would coax any more out.

REVIEW Bergama Cafe Durham NC [Closed August, 2013]

Bergama Cafe
3520 Hillsborough Road
Durham NC
(919) 383-0300‎
http://bergamacafe.com/

In a word, delish!
3.5/5 stars - $$ (to use Greg Cox 's shorthand ratings)

Recorded 12-17-09
[After dragging myself to the finish line on a very burdensome writing project last night, I was exhausted, unkempt, grizzled, and hungry. I took son Jon to Tommies for smokes and a Coke, and easily determined we were both hungry, and a Middle Eastern supper at a new neighborhood restaurant was appealing. About 8:30 we were seated. The place was empty. Sad, and so unfitting. They have wonderful food and are lovely and interesting people. He's from Chechnya  and his wife is from Turkey.}

The venue: Was a Burger King for many years on heavily traveled Hillsborough Rd near I-85 and US 15-501. Was converted to a "serious" sit down place a few years ago, and has yet to foster a place for a great restaurant, although the need is real for that part of town.

Me: Dolmas and Roasted Potatoes with vegetable gravy - Excellent $12, including sides. Glass of Sutter Home White Zin, $4.25, $20 with tax and tip.
Sides Pizza Bread Sticks/herb-seasoned EVOO - V. Good
Salad Bar One Trip - Limited but Excellent

The stuffed cabbage rolls (5 were presented) were lovely, as were the roasted potatoes. The whole was covered with a flavorsome gravy of cooked cabbage, onions, and the pan gravy. The seasonings were subtle, peppery, and aromatic. The salad bar was limited in offerings but all the ingredients were fresh and crisp. Very tasty ranch dressing. The bread sticks were baked from pizza dough, and so were nicely chewy. A plate of flavored oil on the side for dipping was provided. More bread was offered later in the meal. Service was friendly and attentive (we were initially the only diners) although our waitress seemed new and knew little about the menu.

Wine list (on a Corona placard!) is brief and laughable with the odd surprise. Greek vin ordnaire at $8/glass. "Straight from Greece" it says. Where else for Greek wine?

Jon: Gyro platter. Very attractively sliced and folded roast meat, arranged on a bed of grilled pitas. $10.95; $16.00 with tax and tip. Sides: Bread sticks, salad bar, rice pilaf,  steamed vegetable medley - Jon pronounced it all excellent. He drank ice water. A Best Buy.
 
This place needs some changes to succeed. It would be a shame if tasty ethnic fare doesn't succeed. Bergama needs menu design advice; a better web presence; a better street impact to attract diners from heavy traffic on street. Better wine list. Ethnic clarity of offerings. Pizza? Italian? Greek? Turkish? "Middle Eastern". Menu needs to educate better.