Kosher-Style Deli Corned Beef

Developed July, 2016. The usual method of preparing corned beef brisket by simmering for many hours with cabbage, carrots, onions, and potatoes produces a satisfying meal but does not yield a product like the juicy tender meat stacked up on rye bread in a kosher-style corned beef sandwich. What is the delicatessen secret? Very simple, don’t boil, steam!

2 to 3 lb corned beef brisket (point cut is preferred but flat cut is more commonly sold)
spice packet

Remove the meat from its wrapping but do not rinse. Arrange, with the fat cap uppermost, in the insert of a steamer pot or directly on the stainless-steel basket in an improvised steamer. Sprinkle the spices from the enclosed packet evenly on the upper surface. Start the steamer with about a half inch of water, leaving room for the ample fluid that will be released from the meat as it cooks. Adjust the heat to maintain slow steaming, restoring water as needed. Steam 3 hours or until a carving fork penetrates easily. Let cool, covered in steamer. To serve, slice thinly across the grain, removing and discarding the ample fat. Reheat slices in a steamer as needed.

Pan-Roasted Porterhouse

Suggested by a recipe at Cook's Country™ for slow-roasted beef. The salt marinade is similar to the method for "koshering" beef -- but the loin is never used. The salt both flavors and tenderizes by dissolving muscle proteins, mostly myosin, I would guess. Prepared January 23, 2010.

Cross-Cut Porterhouse Roast 

with Haricot Vert and Roasted Potatoes

2 inch thick Angus Porterhouse, about 2-1/2 lbs

1 T olive oil

1 T kosher salt

freshly ground pepper, to taste

garlic granules, to taste

Sauce

1/4 c brandy
2 T butter
2 T capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped
1 t fresh thyme
1/2 c light cream

To cook at 6 pm, start at 10 am. Rub salt evenly on all surfaces, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate about 6 hours. Let steak warm to room temperature. Wipe surfaces carefully with a paper towel to remove excess salt and dry the meat so that it will brown and crust in the oil. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Saute in 12 inch oven proof sizzling hot saute pan over medium-high heat in olive oil. Will be smoke, so turn on range hood. About 5 minutes a side, until nicely colored. Transfer to the middle rack of the oven to finish cooking. For medium-rare, remove to a platter when temperature in the middle of the steak reads 118 to 120 degrees F (about 48 C). Tent with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. While meat is resting, prepare the sauce. Deglaze pan with brandy, then whisk in the butter, a bit at a time. Off heat, add the seasonings and whisk in the cream. Bring to a slow boil for a few minutes to reduce. Carve into thin slices across the grain by turning pieces of the steak on the side (see Note). Coat slices in sauce and arrange on a dinner platter. Serves 4. Suggested sides:

haricot vert braised in butter and tarragon
oven-roasted yellow potato wedges with rosemary and olive oil

Note: Muscle fascicles in the loin run mostly front-to-back and Porterhouse steaks are cut transversely. Thus to produce the tenderest mouthful of beef, it should be cut en face. That is, bone out the steak, cut into large pieces, turn sideways, and cut thin slices across the surface with a very sharp knife. This also separates the well done from the rare. Take your pick.