Saturday, January 13, 2018

Oven-Braised Beef Chuck Ribs

Beef Chuck Ribs with Egg Noodles
Developed January, 2018. This hard-to-find cut sits next to the short ribs. Although it is less expensive it is just as flavorsome. In this recipe, a homemade BBQ sauce furnishes the braising liquid.
2 4-rib racks beef chuck ribs
1 c Durham-Style BBQ sauce
GP seasoning and rub
8 oz egg noodles
Preheat oven to 325 F. Rinse and dry the meat. Trim away any loose fat or tissues and cut into two-rib sections.  Season both sides generously (1 tablespoon per pound) and place into a dutch oven. Pour the sauce over the meat, turning with tongs to cover. Roast covered, turning occasionally, until meat is fork tender, about 3 hours. Boil the noodles for two minutes less than package calls for. Drain the noodles, stir them into the pot, and return to the oven for 10 minutes to absorb flavor and finish cooking. Serves four. Sauteed spinach makes a good side. Variation: Include par-boiled green cabbage wedges with the noodles. Extend cooking time as needed until they are tender.

Friday, January 12, 2018

Pork Congee

Congee (often called 'jook') is unfamiliar to most Western diners but is a staple dish in China, often eaten for breakfast. Akin to Cream of Rice in texture, it's a warm, aromatic, easy-to-digest, satisfying 'comfort' food.  This version was developed in January 2018 from a recipe at SeriousEats.Com.
1/2 lb ground pork
1/2 t minced fresh ginger root
1/2 t minced garlic
1 t shaoxing wine
1/4 t kosher salt
1/4 t sugar
1/2 t soy sauce
1/4 t sodium bicarbonate
1-1/2 t cornstarch
2 t vegetable oil


5 c water
1/2 c medium-grain rice, rinsed and drained
1-1/2 t kosher salt


1 c corn kernels, canned, frozen and thawed, or fresh-cut
2 scallions, sliced across
In a bowl, combine the first 10 ingredients. Mix well and set aside. In a three-quart saucepan, combine water, rice, and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Cook gently for 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The congee should look creamy. Add the pork mixture to the congee, breaking apart the meat, and simmer with stirring with the lid off until the pork is cooked, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in the corn and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately, topped with chopped scallions.

Sunday, December 24, 2017

Stuffing for Roast Turkey

Recorded November, 2015. A Family Favorite over many generations for Thanksgiving or any other holiday dinner. This recipe will stuff a 12 to 14 pound bird.
24 oz loaf hearty white sandwich bread (Arnold’s Country White™ is good)
1/2 c soft margarine or butter
1 medium onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 rib celery, diced
4 oz mushrooms, chopped
2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 2 t dry
about 3/4 c turkey or chicken stock
salt and freshly-ground pepper
Cube and toast the bread according to the method described here, and set aside in a large bowl. In a large skillet, melt fat over medium heat. Add vegetables and thyme, and sauté gently until tender; remove thyme. When vegetables and bread are cool, combine them. Add stock by the half-cupful, tossing gently after each addition until mixture is moist but still a bit dry since it will pick up moisture during roasting. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pack stuffing loosely into front and rear cavities and close with pins and butcher's twine.

Gravimetric Lemonade

Developed May, 2014. This recipe uses a 11-fold dilution for a bright pucker and distinct lemon flavor. No need to dirty measuring cups and spoons if your kitchen is equipped with a fast digital platform scale. Simply weigh the ingredients as you add them. Use the gram setting to keep it simple. For example, to figure out what half of 1-3/4 ounce is, is tough, but half of 50 grams is easy.
40 g lemon juice
25 to 50 g sugar, depending on taste
400 g water
Weigh the water, lemon juice, and 25 grams of sugar into a suitable container set (tared) to zero and stir to dissolve. Taste for sweetness and add sugar as needed. Serve over ice in a tall glass. Serves 1 or 2.

Crispy Batter for Fish, Chicken, or Vegetables

Developed August, 2017 from online examples. In hot oil, the batter puffs up and turns crispy and light, somewhat like a tempura batter. It works well for fish fillets or chicken strips, but is also good for vegetables such as mushrooms, green onions, onion rings. The water can be replaced with a lager or ale if desired.
3/4 c self-rising flour (White Lily™ is good)
1/4 c corn starch
1/4 t baking soda
1/4 t baking powder
2 t kosher salt
1 t sugar
1/2 t onion powder
1/2 t paprika
1/4 t garlic powder
3/4 c ice-cold water [or lager or ale]
Whisk dry ingredients together in a bowl. Gently stir in liquid until smooth, let stand 10 minutes, and add additional liquid if needed. The consistency is correct when batter streams off the whisk without leaving a trail. Preheat 48 ounces of vegetable oil in a three-quart saucepan to 375 F (190 C). Dip fish, chicken, or vegetable pieces until completely covered, drain briefly, and add to hot fat. Cook small batches (about 1/3 pound) until lightly browned, remove with a spider or slotted spoon to drain, and keep warm in 200 F (90 C) oven. Offer lemon wedges and tartar sauce.

Saturday, December 23, 2017

Five-Spice Braised Chicken Wings

Braised Wings on a Small Plate

Developed by Ben in March, 2013. Slow braising in a flavorsome Asian-style sauce creates a finger-licking dish.

12 wings, cut into segments, discard tips
about 2 t five-spice powder
about 2 T corn starch
2 T vegetable oil, divided
Sauce
1/2 c soy sauce
1/2 c rice wine or dry white wine
1/2 c water
4 T Shao Shing rice wine
4 T oyster sauce
6 T sugar
chili sauce to taste (optional)
2 sliced scallions (garnish)
Wash and dry wing segments. Toss with five-spice powder to lightly cover the wings, and set aside for 30 minutes. Sprinkle lightly with corn starch, and toss to coat. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium, and brown the wings on both sides. Do not crowd the pan. You may need to fry two batches. Mix the sauce ingredients. Combine both batches in the skillet and pour sauce over the wings. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Uncover and gently simmer, occasionally turning the wings until sauce thickens and glazes the wings. Garnish with scallions and serve with steamed rice. Variation: Serve as small-plate appetizers without rice.

Fried Waffle

Developed December, 2017. Crisping the waffle in oil and topping with peanut butter and fruit sauce makes a quick, nourishing breakfast or brunch dish.
1 thick frozen waffle (Eggo™ Thick and Fluffy is good)
1 T vegetable oil
2 T peanut butter
2 T berry sauce (e.g., raspberry)
Defrost the waffle at room temperature. Heat the oil in a small non-stick skillet until about 375 F (190 C). Add the waffle carefully and fry for one minute, flip, and fry one minute more. The waffle should be crisp and lightly-browned on both sides. Remove to a plate, spread with peanut butter, and top with fruit sauce. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired.

Thursday, December 21, 2017

Grilled Fontina on Tuscan Bread

Grilled Fontina on Tucan Bread
First prepared September, 2009. Tuscan-style bread, due to the absence of salt to tame the yeast, has large gas bubbles. The melted cheese oozes through these openings and browns and crisps when it contacts the hot griddle, creating a special flavor and texture. A savory roasted garlic spread and extra-virgin olive oil add to the experience.
2 slices Tuscan-style bread (Trader Joe is good)
2 T roasted garlic spread
2 oz Fontina cheese slices
about 1 oz extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium high. Cover both inner surfaces of the bread with the garlic spread. Brush olive oil on the outside of one slice, and place oil side down in the skillet. Layer the cheese slices on that slice, position the second slice on top and brush it with oil. Press down firmly with a spatula as the sandwich cooks. When crispy and lightly colored on the first side, turn and cook the second, pressing firmly as it cooks.  (Note: Tuscan bread has no sugar and thus doesn't readily caramelize.)

Wednesday, December 20, 2017

No-Flip Frittata

Developed May, 2017. A frittata makes for a fast, easy, and economical meal combining eggs with leftover dressed pasta. It's especially well suited for brunch. In this ’no-flip’ approach, the awkward step of flipping the half-cooked frittata is eliminated by first cooking the bottom on the stove top and then finish the top under the oven broiler.
5 large eggs
3 T (50 ml) olive oil
20 oz (560 g) leftover dressed pasta 
1/2 c (125 ml) grated parmesan cheese 
1 t (5 ml) salt
1/2 t (3 ml) ground black pepper
In a large bowl, beat the eggs well, add the salt and pepper, and stir in the pasta. Heat the oil in an oven-proof nonstick 10-inch skillet on medium, and when hot, pour in the egg-pasta mixture. Chop the pasta into somewhat smaller pieces with a spatula. Cook without stirring until the frittata is cooked on the bottom (lift to see) and becomes firm near the top, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle on the cheese and put the skillet about 8 inches below a preheated broiler. Broil until top is browned and bubbling, a few minutes. Serves four generously. Pair with a green salad on the side.

Freshly Pickled Radishes

Developed December, 2017. A tangy, colorful garnish to a salad plate, appetizer, or mezze platter, or to put a tangy crunch in sandwich.
4 oz (115 g) large red radishes
1/2 c rice vinegar
1/2 c water
2 t kosher salt
1 T + 1 t granulated sugar
Thinly slice large red radishes into rounds and place into a tightly-closing container. Combine the other ingredients and pour over the radishes. Close and refrigerate at least two hours. Keeps well.

Monday, December 18, 2017

Hint: Double Dose Some Herbs

When using herbs in a dish, it's often not clear when they should be added. I find that most herbs are fine to add at the beginning, such as black pepper or dry thyme, some in the middle to bloom them in hot oil, but that some, such as fresh basil, should be added last and not cooked at all. Some benefit from a double dose, added at first but then given a second addition to refresh the flavor shortly before serving. I include dry thyme and dry tarragon among those that respond well to double dosing. This is akin to 'cold hopping' in brewing where an addition of new hops is made to the cold wort before fermenting and aging.

Sunday, December 17, 2017

Pork Shoulder Braised with Apples and Onions

Developed December, 2017. A hearty roast that pairs pork with apples, onions, and warm spices to yield a dish with complex flavors, sweet, savory, and aromatic.
6 lb pork shoulder, bone in
6 T General Purpose Dry Rub
vegetable oil
2 medium apples, cored, cut into wedges
2 medium onions, sliced through poles
2 t dry thyme
1 t fennel seed

1 t ground coriander
1 t ground cumin
2 bay leaves
1 t ground black pepper
1 T brown sugar (if apples are tart)
3/4 c white wine
about 1-1/2 c chicken stock
Score fat cap on 1/2 inch grid, after cutting off excess. Work dry rub well into all sides of the roast. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate 8 to 24 hours. Blot dry, and brown well on all sides in oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Remove and cover to keep warm. Preheat oven to 325 F (160 C). Add sliced onions and apples to the pan, adding more oil if needed. Cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the seasonings, and when fragrant, add white wine and reduce by two-thirds. Return meat to pot, add stock to half cover the roast. Cover the pot, bring to a simmer, and transfer to the oven on a middle shelf. Baste occasionally, and roast until "fall off the bone" tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Internal temperature will be about 210 F (about 98 C). Tent the roast with aluminum foil and set aside to cool. To prepare the pan gravy, strain out the apples and onion and return  with de-fatted pan juices to the roasting pan. Use an immersion blender to turn into a smooth natural gravy. When the roast is cool, carve out the bone (shoulder blade). Cut the de-boned roast across the grain into thick slices. Serve with pan gravy. Steamed rice, turnip greens, roasted vegetables, and braised cabbage make good sides.

Thursday, November 30, 2017

Green Bean and Potato Sauté

Developed November, 2017. This is the ideal 'green vegetable + starch' side dish. Based on pantry ingredients, it's easy, quick, and cheap.
1 39-oz can green beans and whole potatoes (Hanover™ brand is good)
1/4 c shallots, thinly sliced
2 to 3 T chicken fat or other fat such as bacon, butter, or olive oil
1 t paprika
salt
Heat the fat in a 10-inch nonstick skillet until bubbling. Add the shallots and salt lightly. Fry with frequent stirring until soft but not colored. Drain the vegetables thoroughly, reserving the pack liquid. Add the green beans to the skillet, separate from the potatoes. As the beans are cooking, slice the potatoes thinly. After about five minutes, add the potatoes, season with paprika and salt, and continue cooking. After 10 minutes, add the reserved liquid bit by bit until about half has been added. Cook with frequent turning until most of the liquid has been lost and a pan sauce forms. Serves 3 to 4.

Monday, November 20, 2017

Steamed Broccoli

The steaming method produces a tender, bright-green product but avoids a water-logged, mushy vegetable that can easily result when boiling is used.
10 oz (300 g) fresh broccoli
2 T (30 ml) low-fat margarine or butter
1 t (5 ml) salt
2 T (30 ml) lemon juice
Trim away the tough base and cut the broccoli into bite-sized pieces. Place in a shallow bowl and top with salt, lemon juice, and the fat. Place into a steamer, cover tightly, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, testing for doneness when the tip of a paring knife penetrates easily. Toss to distribute the flavorings and serve in the bowl it was steamed in.

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Corned-Beef Style Boiled Vegetables

Developed March, 2017. Unlike the traditional boiling method, when steam is used to cook corned beef, there may be little flavorsome stock in which to cook the accompanying vegetables. This recipe solves the problem by first creating a stock with beef base and the appropriate spices. Another approach was described earler.
2 qt water
1 T beef stock concentrate (Better than Bouillon™ is good)
2 T kosher salt
1/2 T brown sugar
Put the following in a large tea ball or wrap in cheese cloth.
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2 allspice berries
1 t peppercorns
1 t coriander seeds
1 lb yellow potatoes, quartered lengthwise
10 oz (four medium) carrots, peeled, split lengthwise
1-1/2 lb (1/2 head) green cabbage, quartered through the core
8 oz frozen pearl onions, thawed
Bring water, concentrate, salt, and sugar to a slow boil, with stirring. Add the seasonings and simmer 10 minutes to form a cooking stock. Add potatoes, cabbage, and carrots. Cook at a fast simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the onions and heat through. Rewarm corned beef slices in the stock and serve in bowls. Variation: Replace or supplement the corned beef with lengths of Polish sausage.

Easy Pumpkin Bread

Pumpkin spice does its best work in this moist, rich sweet bread. Recipe from a family friend from 30 years ago.
1 29 oz can pumpkin
4 beaten eggs
3 c sugar
1 c oil
3-1/2 c flour
2 t salt
1 t baking soda
1 t baking powder
1/2 t ground clove
1 t ground all spice
1 t ground cinnamon
1 t ground nutmeg
about 2/3 c water
1-1/2 cups chopped roasted walnuts
Preheat oven to 350 F. In large bowl, beat eggs, stir in pumpkin, sugar, and oil in sequence, mixing well after each addition. Sift dry ingredients into pumpkin mixture and stir until smooth. Stir in water and mix in nuts. Distribute batter into 3 well-greased large loaf pans. Bake 55 to 60 minutes. A toothpick inserted in middle will come out clean when done. Keeps and freezes well. Very good toasted and topped with cream cheese. Yield: 3 large loaves.

Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Paleo Brine

The term 'paleo' in the title is meant to indicate cooking practices of early humans and, also likely, our pre-human precursors. Early cooks discovered the benefits of 'brining' their food before cooking it, better flavor and moistness. The simplest marinade is sea water. The term 'marine' can be seen as the origin of the word 'marinade'. This recipe approximates the salinity of seawater, namely 3.5% or 35 grams per 1000 milliliters. This may be prepared using a digital kitchen scale or by volume measure by standardizing on a particular salt product.
35 g or 1/4 c Diamond Crystal™ Kosher salt 
1000 g or 1 qt water
Dissolve the salt in the water in a large bowl with stirring. Soak the food item for 10 minutes to several hours depending on thickness and texture. Drain and pat dry if frying will be used. Only use pepper to season.

Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Lemon Orzo Pilaf

Developed August, 2017 in response to a dreadful recipe in a local supermarket ad. Although orzo masquerades as a grain, it is a small rice-shaped form of pasta that is often cooked much like rice. This dish's lemony tang lends it to most any meat or fish as a side.
1/4 c shallots or green onions, finely diced
2 T olive oil, divided
1 c orzo
1-3/4 c hot stock (chicken, seafood, or vegetable)
1 t salt
1 t minced garlic
2 T lemon juice
1 t dry tarragon
1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium. Add the shallots, salt lightly, and cook until lightly browned. Mix in the orzo and the other tablespoon of oil. Cook until the orzo is opaque and lightly colored. Stir in the garlic, salt, lemon juice, and the stock. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed. Fluff, stir in the tarragon, and the cheese if desired. Serves three or four. Variation: Substitute basmati rice for orzo.

Thursday, September 21, 2017

Steel Cut Oats with Roasted Walnuts and Golden Raisins

Steel cut oats have a firmer texture and require longer cooking than rolled oats. This recipe is modified from an Alton Brown recipe on Food Network, broadcast in 2008.
1 T butter
1 c steel cut oats
3 c boiling water
1/2 c milk
1/2 c buttermilk
1/2 t salt
2 T brown sugar
1/4 t cinnamon
1/4 c ground roasted walnuts
1/4 c golden raisins
In a large saucepan, melt the butter and when sizzling stops, add the oats. Stir for a few minutes to toast. Stir in the boiling water, salt, milk, and half the buttermilk. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook uncovered for 30 minutes, without stirring. Stir in the raisins, nuts, the reserved buttermilk and let stand covered for 10 minutes off heat. Garnish each serving with a few chopped nuts or a pinch of cinnamon. Serves 4 generously.

Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Arroz con Pollo

Most cuisines have a fondness for their version of chicken and rice, and all are delicious. This approach to the Mexican classic is modifed from Cooks Country TV recipe. Developed September, 2017.
1 c fresh cilantro leaves and stems, chopped
1 c onion, chopped, divided
1 Cubanelle or Anaheim pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped (3/4 cup)
5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 t ground cumin
2 T lemon juice
salt and pepper
3 lbs (about 6 to 8) chicken thighs, trimmed
1 T vegetable oil
2 c medium-grain rice, rinsed
1/2 T ground coriander
1/2 T ground achiote (annatto)
3 c chicken stock
1/4 c pimento-stuffed green olives, halved
2 T capers, rinsed
2  bay leaves
½ c frozen peas, thawed in cold water, drained
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Process cilantro, 1/2 cup onion, Cubanelle, garlic, and cumin in food processor until finely chopped, about 20 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer mixture to a bowl. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season well with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add chicken to pot skin side down and cook without moving it until skin is crispy and golden, 7 to 9 minutes. Flip chicken and continue to cook until golden on second side, 7 to 9 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pot and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add remaining 1/2 cup onion and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in rice, coriander, and achiote powder and cook until edges of rice turn translucent. Stir in broth, olives, capers, bay leaves, chopped aromatics, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, scraping up any browned bits. Nestle chicken into pot along with any accumulated juices and bring to vigorous simmer. Cover, transfer to oven, and bake for 20 minutes. Transfer pot to wire rack and let stand, covered, for 15 minutes. Discard bay leaves, fluff rice with fork and stir in peas. Serves 4 to 6.

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Marinated Mushrooms

Adapted from an online recipe. Developed July, 2017. Add to salads or serve as part of an appetizer assortment.
8 oz white or brown mushrooms
2 T extra virgin olive oil
2 T red wine vinegar
2 T red onion, finely chopped
1 t garlic, minced
1 t brown sugar
1/4 t dried oregano
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper
pinch red pepper flakes
1 small bay leaf
1/2 t salt
Soak and clean the mushrooms. If large, cut in quarters. Boil mushrooms five minutes in salted water and drain thoroughly. Reserve the mushroom stock for another use or freeze. In a bowl, whisk the seasonings together and add the mushrooms. Let marinate an hour at room temperature. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Refrigerate, tightly covered. Serves 4, easily doubled.

Monday, June 26, 2017

Smothered Chicken with Pasta

Developed April, 2017. A hearty skillet meal ready in about an hour.
2.5 lbs chicken thighs, trimmed of excess skin and visible fat
kosher salt
all-purpose flour
4 T olive oil, divided
2 T tomato paste
1 medium tomato, chopped finely
6 oz sliced mushrooms
1 medium onion, chopped coarsely
2 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
2 t dry tarragon, divided
1/4 t red pepper flakes
3/4 c dry white wine
1-1/2 c chicken stock
2 T lemon juice
1/4 c chopped parsley
1 lb spaghetti, linguine or fettuccine, cooked al dente
reserved pasta water, as needed
Season the meat well with salt on both sides, and dust lightly with flour. Heat a 12-inch stainless steel skillet over medium high. Add half the oil. When hot, add the chicken, skin side down. While the meat is browning, prepare the vegetables and seasonings. After about four minutes, turn the chicken and brown the other side. Remove to a plate and cover to keep warm.  Add the remaining oil to the skillet, sauté the tomato paste, tomato, mushrooms, onions, and garlic until lightly browned and soft. Add wine and cook until half gone. Add back the chicken, skin side up, a teaspoon of tarragon, the pepper flakes, and chicken stock to half cover the meat. Bring to a fast simmer, cover and cook until the chicken is done, about 30 minutes. Add lemon juice to taste, about 1 tablespoon and the other teaspoon of tarragon. Discard chicken skin and cut meat from bone. Slice meat and return to pan. Stir in the cooked pasta, adding stock or pasta water as needed. Cook covered until pasta is tender, garnish with parsley, drizzle on olive oil, and serve in warm bowls. Pass Parmesan cheese. Variation: Render skin and fat for schmaltz.

Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Skillet-Baked Blueberry Clafoutis

Adapted from a recipe broadcast on PBS, "Growing a Greener World", the perfect brunch dish combines fresh blueberries in a rich, lemony custard with a caramel crust.
2 T unsalted butter
4 T sugar, divided
5 whole eggs
1 c whole milk
1 t vanilla extract
zest of 1 lemon
1/8 t salt
1/2 c all-purpose flour
12 oz blueberries
powdered sugar, optional garnish
Preheat oven to 425°F. In a 10-inch oven-safe, non-stick skillet, combine the butter, with 2 tablespoons sugar and place over medium heat. Meanwhile power whisk the eggs plus the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar on high speed until tripled in volume, and pale, canary yellow in color, about 5 minutes. Then by hand, gradually whisk in the milk, the vanilla extract, lemon zest, salt, and flour until just incorporated. Pour this mixture into the hot pan, top with the blueberries, then transfer into the oven. Bake for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown on top, and the clafoutis has puffed up. Remove from the oven, and turn out onto a cutting board. Slice, and top with the optional powdered sugar. Serves 6 generously.

Saturday, June 17, 2017

Chicken and Rice, Italian style

Easy to make, satisfying one-pot supper adapted from Lidiasitaly.com. 
1-1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 medium onion, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 medium carrots, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 ribs celery, cut in 1-inch chunks
2 plump garlic cloves, peeled
1/3 c extra-virgin olive oil
1 T kosher salt, divided
1 bay leaf
1 c dry white wine
5 c hot chicken or turkey stock, plus more if needed
2 c short-grain rice, such as arborio, carnaroli, or paella
2 T butter, cut in pieces
3 T chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 c grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for passing
Trim any excess fat from the thighs, and cut into 1-inch chunks. Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into a fine-textured pestata. Add the oil to a large heavy saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. Stir in the pestata, and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pestata has dried and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken pieces and the bay leaf, and the remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Turn the chicken in the pan until browned all over, about 4 minutes. Raise the heat, pour in the white wine, and cook, stirring and scraping up the browned bits in the pan, until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Add the hot stock with stirring, and then all the rice. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to keep the rice bubbling gently. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until both the rice and the chicken chunks are fully cooked and the consistency is creamy. Off heat, remove the bayleaf, stir in the butter pieces vigorously until thoroughly combined, then stir in the parsley and the grated cheese. Serve immediately in pasta bowls, passing additional grated cheese at the table. Serves 4 to 6.

Saturday, May 13, 2017

Powdered Sugar

Topping desserts with a dusting of powdered sugar provides an attractive garnish. Making a small supply at home when needed solves the problem when none is on hand. 
1/3 c granulated sugar
1 t corn starch
Place ingredients in an electric spice/coffee grinder. Operate grinder for about 15 seconds until sugar is finely powdered. Store tightly covered at room temperature.

Monday, April 24, 2017

Quick and Easy Bean and Spinach Soup

Developed April, 2017. Seasoned pinto beans serve as the basis of a hardy vegan soup ready in 30 minutes from pantry ingredients. Leftovers make a good breakfast.
1 14.5 oz can rancher style (charro) beans
2 T
tomato paste
1 T olive oil 

16 oz chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 t ground cumin
1/2 t ground coriander

pinch of red pepper flakes
6 oz frozen or fresh leaf spinach
1 t salt
1 t sugar
lemon juice to taste
Heat the oil in a two-quart saucepan. Brown the tomato paste in the oil, add the spices, and cook a few seconds to bloom the flavor. Add the beans and the stock, and cook at a fast simmer over moderate heat with frequent stirring for 20 minutes. Mash the beans with a potato masher. Add the spinach, return to a simmer with stirring for another 8 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serves 3 to 4. Pair with crusty bread or hot biscuits, for a complete meal. 

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Poached Chicken

Adapted from Julia Child's original recipe (Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II). A one-pot supper that is light but satisfying, a Family Favorite for more than 40 years. 
2 breasts with attached ribs plus 4 bone-in thighs, about 4 lbs total
3 T butter
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into large diagonal pieces
1 large white onion, cut through poles into large wedges
3 ribs celery, cut into large diagonal pieces
1 leek, cleaned of soil and sliced across
2 c chicken stock
1 c dry white wine
1 t dry tarragon
salt and pepper
Skin chicken parts and trim away all visible fat. Heat a large heavy pot over medium, and add the butter. When sizzling stops, stir in the vegetables, and saute for five minutes. Add chicken, cover, and turn off heat for 5 minutes. Add stock, wine, and tarragon. Return to a simmer for 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over steamed white rice in a deep bowl, along with the vegetables and broth.

Saturday, February 4, 2017

Fried Rice with Spring Vegetables

Developed February, 2017. Other tender vegetables such as bean sprouts, sweet pepper, summer squash could be added or substituted based on local markets.
6 oz (175 g) young asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) lengths
6 oz (175 g) napa cabbage, bottoms trimmed, cut in half lengthwise, and then crosswise into 1/4 inch-wide (3 mm) strips
3 oz (85 g) yellow or white onion, sliced thinly through the poles
2 t (10 ml) garlic, minced
6 cups (1.5 l) steamed white rice, cooled over night
1/2 c (125 ml) frozen peas, thawed in cold water and drained
1 egg beaten with a fat pinch of salt, sugar and a splash of soy sauce (use egg substitute for vegan or omit)
vegetable oil, as needed
2 green onions, finely sliced across
Seasonings
2 t (10 ml) dark sesame oil
4 to 6 T (60 to 80 ml) soy sauce, to taste
1/2 t (2.5 ml) salt
1 t (5 ml) sugar
Heat a wok over medium heat to about 450 F (230 C). Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Set a kitchen timer to 10 minutes. When oil is hot, add asparagus and salt lightly. Stir fry for 2 minutes. Stir in cabbage, salt lightly, add oil as needed and stir fry 2 minutes. Add onion, fry 2 minutes more. Stir in rice, raise heat, and add a tablespoon of oil around the edge. Stir in seasonings. Fry about four minutes more, turning often, until lightly browned. Stir in peas, and drizzle on egg mixture. Cover and let stand one minute. Fold the egg into the rice. Garnish with the green onions. Serves four as part of a Chinese meal.

Sunday, January 8, 2017

Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms

Developed January, 2005. Dried porcini are available online in bulk at modest prices. They keep forever.
1 oz dried porcini mushrooms
2 c boiling water

2-1/2 c water
2 t commercial chicken or vegetable stock concentrate
1 T porcini powder (optional)
2 T olive oil plus some as garnish

1 T minced garlic
1/4 c minced shallot
1/2 c minced yellow onion
1/2 c dry white wine

1 c arborio rice

3/4 c Parmesan cheese, grated
Combine mushrooms and boiling water in a heat-proof container. Stir occasionally. After 20 minutes, drain and squeeze the mushrooms, saving the broth. Chop the mushrooms coarsely and set aside. Combine the reserved mushroom broth, water, mushroom powder, and concentrate in a saucepan. Bring to a boil with stirring and keep hot. In a 12-inch skillet  heat the oil over medium and add the aromatics. Sauté until soft, add the mushrooms with stirring, and when warmed through, mix in the rice. Continue to stir until the rice turns milky, add the wine and continue cooking until the wine is absorbed. Add enough hot stock to just cover the rice and stir. As stock is absorbed add more gradually,  stirring between additions. When all the stock has been added, reduce heat, cover, and cook until the moisture is absorbed. Stir well as you add the cheese, drizzle on olive oil and serve. Serves 4. For vegetarian, replace chicken stock with vegetable stock.

Sunday, December 25, 2016

Cabbage, Potatoes, and Onions Braised in Corned Beef Stock

 
Red Cabbage, Golden Potatoes, & Pearl Onions

Developed December, 2016. After steaming a corned beef brisket, a very flavorsome liquid is left that captures the spice, herbs, and meatiness of the beef. This dish exploits this rich liquor to braise the vegetables that complete the meal.
small head of red cabbage, cut into eighths through the poles
1-1/2 lbs (680 g) yellow potatoes (Yukon Golds™, for example), cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces
8 oz (225 g) frozen pearl onions, thawed
Bring the steaming liquid reserved from preparing the corned beef to a slow boil. Add the cabbage, potatoes, and water sufficient to cover. Adjust heat to a slow boil and simmer 12 minutes. Add thawed onions. Cook another 6 minutes. With a slotted spoon or spider, move vegetables to a platter and serve with slices of corned beef. Serves four.

Monday, December 5, 2016

Schmaltz (Rendered Chicken Fat)

Recorded December, 2016. Fats and oils differ according to their differing contents of fatty acids. This is why various fats are preferred, such as lard in pie crusts or duck fat for frying potatoes. Chicken fat, often discarded when preparing chicken, can be rendered and reserved. It's fatty acid composition is almost identical to duck fat. It is especially valuable for making matzo balls or pan-roasting potatoes, and as a spread on a bread when dietary laws forbid butter. As you prepare chicken, accumulate and freeze the fatty trimmings until there are enough to do a batch.
8 to 12 oz fat and fatty skin trimmed from chicken
Chop the partially-thawed fat and skin coarsely and tranfer to a cold, non-stick 10-inch skillet. Heat over medium until the fat begins to melt and pool. Lower heat to medium-low, and slowly cook uncovered, turning the pieces of cracklings (gribenes, in Yiddish) as the fat renders out. Pour off the fat into a container from time to time and continue frying. When it appears that no more fat is being released, remove the cracklings to paper towels and salt lightly. Store fat in a closed container on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. Variation: Fry sliced onions in the fat and use both together in savory dishes.

Thursday, November 17, 2016

Margaritas

A simple recipe for a classic mixed drink using Mexico's two iconic ingredients, limes and tequila, distilled from roasted agave cactus. Prepared in seconds or make ahead. Serves four but can easily be scaled up.
6 oz tequila 
4 oz lime juice
4 oz triple sec
1 oz water
1 oz simple syrup
Mix the ingredients in a 16-ounce measuring cup and use immediately or store cold in a tightly-closed container. Coat the rim of four 9-ounce rocks glasses with lime juice, dip in kosher salt, and let dry. Fill with ice cubes, and pour in a four-ounce serving. Stir and serve. Variations: For a sweeter drink, replace the water with more syrup. For an orange flavor note, replace the triple sec with orange liqueur. 

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Hint: Use a Tea Ball to Hold Seasonings

Often recipes for soups, braises, sauces, mulled wine, and the like call for potent herbs and spices to be added during cooking, and for their removal before serving. This might include such seasonings as peppercorns, cloves, allspice berries, bay leaves, citrus peel, ginger, etc. A simple way to remove these after cooking is to place them in a tea ball such as the one pictured below. These are available from many sellers online for a modest sum.
Tea Ball (7 cm diameter)

Sunday, August 14, 2016

Hint: Keeping Baking Powder Dry

Kitchens are humid, hot environments at times. This is a bad place to store baking powder because moisture in the air quickly kills its leavening power. A simple fix that greatly extends the lifespan of a can of baking powder is to store it along with an open box of baking soda, tightly sealed together in a zip top heavy plastic bag. Excess moisture is absorbed by the baking soda, sparing the baking powder from loss of action. Moisture has no effect on the baking soda, which remains a useful leavening (and alkalizing) agent when combined with the acids in foods such as buttermilk.

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Pan Roasted Salmon in a Dill-Mustard-Lemon Sauce

Prepared July, 2016. Our friendly fishmonger let us know that the wild-caught sockeye fillets on offer were fresh, never frozen, air-freighted from the Pacific coast. That fortunate gift from the seas led to this dish.
2 6 to 8-oz salmon filets
2 T olive oil, divided
garlic powder 
salt
pepper
1 T butter
2 T dry white wine
1 T coarse Dijon mustard
2 t finely-chopped fresh dill
2 t lemon juice
Remove any pin bones that remain with needle-nose pliers, and scrape off any remaining scales. Rinse and dry the fillet. Cut across the fillet to make individual portions. Oil both sides generously, and season the flesh side only with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Heat a 10-inch stainless steel skillet over medium high, and film the bottom lightly with oil. When oil smokes, add the fillets skin-side down. Saute undisturbed in a moderately hot pan about 6 minutes, adding extra oil if needed to prevent sticking. Lower heat to a simmer, and cover. Cook about 3 to 4 minutes more, testing for firmness by pressing gently with a finger. Carefully transfer to a serving plate. Raise the heat, and add the butter. When melted, deglaze with the wine, stir in the mustard, dill, and lemon juice and heat through. Drizzle the sauce over the fish before serving. Serves 2, but easily doubled using a 12-inch skillet.

Sunday, July 31, 2016

Easy Mojito for One

Developed July, 2016. This tall, refreshing cocktail was first mixed in Cuba, where it remains popular. In the original recipe, raw white rum, cane syrup, and yerba buena (apple mint) were used. This recipe is an easy-to-make update using familiar ingredients.
4 to 6 fresh spearmint or yerba buena leaves
1-1/2  oz rum, white or dark
1/2 oz bottled or fresh key lime juice
1-1/2 oz simple syrup
club soda
Place mint and rum together in bottom of tall glass. With a wooden muddler, bruise but don’t tear the mint leaves . Add the lime juice, syrup, and fill with ice. Top with club soda, and stir. Garnish with mint leaves or a lime twist.

Saturday, July 30, 2016

Kosher-Style Deli Corned Beef

Developed July, 2016. The usual method of preparing corned beef brisket by simmering for many hours with cabbage, carrots, onions, and potatoes produces a satisfying meal but does not yield a product like the juicy tender meat stacked up on rye bread in a kosher-style corned beef sandwich. What is the delicatessen secret? Very simple, don’t boil, steam!
2 to 3 lb corned beef brisket (point cut is preferred but flat cut is more commonly sold)
spice packet
Remove the meat from its wrapping but do not rinse. Arrange, with the fat cap uppermost, in the insert of a steamer pot or directly on the stainless-steel basket in an improvised steamer. Sprinkle the spices from the enclosed packet evenly on the upper surface. Start the steamer with about a half inch of water, leaving room for the ample fluid that will be released from the meat as it cooks. Adjust the heat to maintain slow steaming, restoring water as needed. Steam 3 hours or until a carving fork penetrates easily. Let cool, covered in steamer. To serve, slice thinly across the grain, removing and discarding the ample fat. Reheat slices in a steamer as needed.

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Stir-Fried Cauliflower in Lobster Sauce

Developed April, 2005. The sauce contains no lobster but is often used with lobster or crab. Softening the cauliflower in the microwave speeds up cooking.
6 cups cauliflower, broken or cut into bite-size florets
salt
2 T vegetable oil
1 medium onion, sliced thinly through the poles
Sauce
3/4 c chicken or vegetable stock
1 t sesame oil
1/2 t mustard powder
1 T fermented black beans (dow see, 豆豉)
1 t garlic, finely chopped
1 T soy sauce
1 T rice wine (or dry sherry)
1 t sugar
1 t salt
1 T cornstarch suspended in 2 T water
2 eggs, beaten with 1/4 t salt
Place the florets in a microwavable bowl, mist with water, lightly salt, cover, and microwave on high power for 3 minutes. Soak the dried black beans in water for 10 minutes, drain, and finely chop. Heat a wok over medium-high, add the oil, and when smoking, add the cauliflower. Stir fry for several minutes until cauliflower begins to color, add the onions, and continue frying. When the onions are softened, stir in the stock, black beans, mustard, garlic, soy sauce, rice wine, and sugar. Cover the wok and bring to a boil and stir in the cornstarch slurry. When thickened, drizzle the beaten eggs over the surface, and when eggs set, combine with the sauce. Serve with steamed rice. Variation: Incorporate 6 ounces of fried shrimp at the end before serving.

Saturday, July 2, 2016

Balsamic Vinaigrette for Salad Caprese

Salad Caprese
Developed July, 2016 from internet recipes. This simple salad combines slices of mozzarella and ripe tomatoes, garnished with a chiffonade of basil leaves, perfect as part of a light summer meal. Caprese refers to the Isle of Capri.
1 oz balsamic vinegar
1/2 T Dijon mustard
1/2 t mashed garlic
1/4 t salt
1/4 t freshly-ground pepper
3 oz extra-virgin olive oil
Add the first five ingredients to a jar with tight-fitting lid. Shake to disperse, add oil, and shake well to disperse. Drizzle sparingly on the assembled salad. Yields about 1/2 cup. Store unused portion cold. Rewarm to room temperature and shake well before next use.

Friday, June 17, 2016

Baked Fish Veracruz Style

Developed June, 2016. This dish comes together quickly, and turns any mild-flavored fish into a piquant entrée. The ingredients reflect both the influence of native ingredients along with Spanish and Moorish flavors that came to the New World during the Spanish conquest of Mexico. Cortez established Veracruz, now a major port on the Gulf of Mexico, in 1519. Red snapper (huachinango) is traditional but any firm-fleshed, mild fish can be used.
1-1/2 lb fish filets (e.g., red snapper, cod, flounder, tilapia, farmed catfish)

2 T olive oil

1 medium onion, sliced thinly across the grain

1 T minced garlic

1 28-oz can prepared marinara sauce

1/4 c chopped green Spanish olives

2 T raisins

2 T chopped parsley

1 T Mexican oregano

1 t ground cumin

1 large bay leaf

6 large pepperoncini, chopped

2 T brine from pepperoncini

salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 C). Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onions until softened, add the garlic, and when fragrant, stir in the marinara sauce, the olives, raisins, oregano, cumin, bay leaf, and parsley. Bring to a fast simmer, cover, and cook 15 minutes. Stir in four of the chopped pepperoncini, the brine and adjust the seasoning. Add a cup of the sauce to a 9”x13” glass baking dish, position the filets in the dish, season well with salt and pepper, and spoon on the remaining sauce. Bake uncovered for 18 to 20 minutes until bubbling and fish flakes easily. Let stand 10 minutes. Garnish the dish with the remaining pepperoncini, and serve with steamed rice. Serves four.