Riced Yellow Potatoes

Recorded February 28, 2010. Transcribed and modified from the video recipe on Cook's Illustrated PBS TV program.

4 to 5 medium yellow potatoes (Yukon Gold™, or similar)
1/2 c hot half and half
1/4 c low-fat soft margarine
salt and pepper to taste

Peel the potatoes and cut into eight equal parts. Place in the basket of a steamer over boiling water and cover tightly. Steam vigorously for 20 to 25 min, until potatoes are soft to the tip of a sharp knife. Transfer to a potato ricer (see NOTE), and rice into a mixing bowl, batch by batch. Stir with a spoon, pouring in the hot cream (hot promotes a creamy and not grainy texture according to Alton Brown). Keeps it hot too of course. Mix until well combined. Add the margarine and keep stirring. Season to taste and whip by hand until smooth.
NOTE DrDaddy also likes the ricer identified in tests at America's Test Kitchen as the best around. RSVP™ International SPUD Potato Ricer 13.5-in

General Purpose Seasoning and Dry Rub

Recorded March 21, 2009. In use for many years. Reformulated 2011 to reduce salt by half and later rice starch was added to maintain free-flowing property.

1 T kosher salt (see Note)
1 T dried thyme
1 T ground black pepper
1 T granulated garlic

Combine ingredients by milling a few seconds in a spice grinder. As a rub, season both sides of meat thoroughly (about 1 t per lb) rubbing it in. Apply the rub about 1 to 2 hours before cooking, depending on thickness. Use the rub on pork ribs ribs, pork loin, pork tenderloin and pork butt. Also good on roast chicken, grilled chicken, roast turkey, fried chicken livers, omelets, and grilled beef. 
Variations: Dust a little ground fennel, five-spice powder, cumin, paprika, or cayenne on the meat after applying the rub. Note: Kosher salt is bulkier than table salt. If table salt is used, reduce salt to 2/3 T.

Air-Roasted Turkey Breast

Air-Roasted Turkey Breast Ready to Carve

Prepared February 24, 2010. A turkey breast cooks quickly and stays moist in this adaptation of the classic Chinese moist roasting method.

whole turkey breast, about 6 lbs
3 T poultry rub
vegetable oil

Prepare the Roast
To prepare the roast, remove any extra skin, fat bodies, membranes, or internal tissues. Rinse well in cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Spread all sides with oil, sprinkle on the rub and coat uniformly. Cover and marinate for 2 hours. 
 
Roasting
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 C). Position the roast skin side up directly on the middle oven rack, over 1-1/2 inches (5 cm) of water in a pan on the rack below (see also Air Roasted Chicken on this site). Roast until temperature in the thickest part reaches 160 degrees F, about 80 to 90 minutes. Let stand on a plate to cool for about 20 minutes before carving. Cut slices perpendicular to the skin down to the ribs. Suggested sides: Riced Yellow Potatoes, and Roasted Vegetables.

Beans and Greens

Beans and Greens at Their Wurst

Developed from an Internet consensus. Prepared with chard, February 14, 2009; prepared with escarole, February 22, 2009. A Family Favorite.

3 T olive oil, divided
large head escarole, or
large bunch Swiss chard
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 t crushed red pepper flakes
1 large clove garlic, sliced thinly
2 (15-1/2 oz) cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, undrained
2 T chopped fresh parsley

In a saucepan, heat a 1 T of olive oil over medium heat. Stir in garlic. When fragrant, stir in beans with juices, and simmer until creamy, about 10 minutes. Keep covered off heat. 
To prepare chard, soak and rinse to remove any soil. Drain well. Trim and discard tough ends, cut off stems and slice into half-inch pieces. Slice leaves in half lengthwise and then into 1.5 inch-wide strips crosswise. Escarole: cut head in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 1.5 inch-wide strips. While beans are cooking, heat 2 T olive oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Toss in chard stems, turning to coat with oil, and saute 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chard leaf pieces. For escarole, add all at the same time. Season the greens with salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper flakes. Cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until tender (about 5 minutes for escarole, 10 minutes for chard). When tender, stir greens and parsley into beans; simmer about 10 minutes more. Cover, and hold 10 minutes for flavors to mature and to thicken. Drizzle a little olive oil over each serving. 
Pairs nicely with a crisply-fried breaded pork chop, grilled baby-back ribs, or beer-braised sausage. For a vegan or vegetarian meal, substitute a crusty bread (e.g., Tuscan or baguette) or freshly-baked biscuits and butter.  Serves 4 to 6.

Sausage Gravy and Biscuits

Recorded January 18, 2005.

1/2 lb ground pork sausage
3 T flour
2 c milk
1 t salt
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
1 t dry sage, rubbed
1/4 t crushed red pepper 

Thoroughly brown the sausage in a 10-inch stainless-steel sauté pan, chopping it into bits with a metal spatula as it cooks. Mix in flour and cook several minutes until 'blonde'. Stir in milk and seasonings, and fast simmer until gravy thickens, scraping the bottom of the pan to incorporate the browned bits. Serve over a freshly-baked biscuit cut in half. Hint: Refrigerated Pillsbury™ biscuits (17 minutes at 375 degrees F in the toaster oven) are good. Makes 6 servings.

Maria Cookie Sammies

Recorded 2-22-10

12 Maria cookies [look in Hispanic food section of your mega-mart]
2 T dark fruit preserves
2 T sunflower seed butter [Target and Trader Joe sells] or coarse natural peanut butter
1 T toasted walnuts or pecans [see NOTE]

Spread a teaspoon of nut butter on a cookie. Dip the sticky side into a dish spread with finely-chopped nuts. Spoon a teaspoonful of a rich dark preserves (black current, black raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, plum etc.) onto the nutty side. Complete the sandwich with another cookie.

Makes 6 sammies. Julian ate two quite willingly. He's two.

NOTE   
Spread a cupful of walnut or pecan pieces in a baking pan. Place in a preheated oven at 275 ºF. Toast for 10 minutes or at the first smell of nutty aroma. Let cool at room temperature. Chop very finely to the consistency of coarse sand. I keep a bowl of toasted walnuts in my mise en place. Great to toss into whatever you are eating or just nab a handful as a quick energy boost from high quality fats and proteins. Toasting enhances flavor and improves digestibility.

Roast Asparagus, Sweet Peppers, and Cremini Mushrooms with Rosemary

Before roasting

Recorded February 8, 2010. Prepared many times.

1/2 lb asparagus, tough ends snapped off, cut into 1-1/2 inch pieces
1 c sweet peppers sliced into 1 inch pieces
4 oz brown button (cremini) mushrooms, wiped clean and quartered
3 T extra virgin olive oil
generous grinds of black pepper
1 t fresh rosemary, finely minced
1 t soy sauce
1/8 t granulated garlic

After roasting

Place the pepper rings in a 8X8 metal pan in a cold toaster oven, and heat to 425 ºF. Dry roast for 5 minutes after it reaches temperature. Add the asparagus and mushrooms, and dry roast for another 10 minutes. Add the oil and seasonings, and mix well. Return to the oven for another 15 - 20 minutes until nicely roasted and colored. Salt lightly and serve. Serves 2 to 3. Variations: Use only the asparagus and leave whole. Combine with steamed rice or couscous as a side dish to roast and grilled meats. Use as a component of a risotto, such as roast wild mushroom and asparagus risotto.

Bacon, Scrambled Eggs, and Buttered Toast

Along with a juice glass of V-8, this is a typical breakfast for me, a maturity-onset diabetic. I dedicate this "recipe" to my beautiful, sweet-natured, and earnest young doctor MB, MD, from her manifestly favorite patient.

2 eggs

1 T light cream

pinch of salt

healthy grind of pepper

1 t butter

2 rashers of "low-fat" toaster-oven bacon

1 slice Arnold's™ Country-Style White

1 t low-fat soft margarine

Whisk the eggs, seasonings, and cream until frothy. Heat the butter until a bit brown in an 8 inch skillet. Add the egg mixture, and scramble lightly. When done but soft, plate as shown with a slice of hot "buttered" toast and crispy bacon. Coffee and juice of course.

Braised Cauliflower in Quick Cheese Sauce

Improvised on February 1, 2010 as a side dish for linguine in clam sauce.

2 cups cauliflower cut into bite-size pieces
1/4 cup low-fat soft margarine
1/3 cup grated mixed Italian cheeses or sharp cheddar cheese
1 t AP flour
salt and pepper to taste

Bring 3 cups of water with 1 t salt to a rapid boil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet. Add the cauliflower and return to a gentle boil. Cook uncovered for 6 minutes. Drain thoroughly, dry the pan, and return to heat. Add the margarine and cook until the sizzling stops and it begins to develop a tan color. Return the par-boiled cauliflower to the pot and saute a few minutes. As it becomes tender, add the cheese and seasonings, and fold together gently. Sift in a bit of flour to hold sauce together. Let stand covered a few minutes to melt the cheese and meld the flavors.  Serves 2 or 3.
Hint: Keep a large shaker filled with all-purpose flour at hand. Use to add flour directly to a dish that needs a bit more body. 

Linguine in Clam Sauce, Pantry-Style

Conceived and prepared on Palindrome Day 01022010. Except for the parsley, the dish is prepared with pantry ingredients in less than 30 minutes. Hint: Always keep parsley on hand. It brightens many dishes and is very nourishing.

3 T (50 ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 T (25 ml) garlic, finely minced with 1/2 t kosher salt
3/4 cup dry white wine

4 6-!/2 oz (180 ml) cans chopped or minced clams, drained

reserved clam juice
2 T (25 ml) tapioca starch, suspended in 2 T clam juice
fistful chopped parsley

2 t (10 ml) fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
shredded or grated Parmesan

1 lb linguine, boiled 8 minutes in salted water
reserved pasta water

Heat a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil. When it shimmers, add the garlic. When it is fragrant, add the wine, and mix to emulsify the wine, oil, and garlic. Reduce by half at a slow boil. Add the reserved clam juice and starch suspension and heat gently with stirring. When hot, stir in the clams and herbs. Stir in the hot undercooked linguine, add some pasta water, continue to cook, adding more pasta water until sauce is loose and the pasta is cooked al dente, about 6 minutes. Plate and finish with a drizzle of oil and a shower of cheese. Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This is the 50th contribution to this blog.

Oven-Roasted Potato Wedges with Rosemary and Olive Oil

Developed February, 2008. Prepared often, a family favorite, and solid performer.

1 lb russet, Yukon Gold®, or sweet potatoes

3 T olive oil
1 t fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 t paprika

kosher salt
freshly ground pepper

Preheat toaster oven and baking pan to 425 ºF. Scrub, dry, and cut potatoes lengthwise into wedges. Put potatoes in a bowl and toss with oil and seasonings. Spread in a single layer, and roast 20 minutes. With a spatula and tongs, turn each wedge over and return to oven for another 10 minutes or until brown and crisp outside and tender inside. Serves 3 to 4 as a side dish.

Pan-Roasted Porterhouse

Suggested by a recipe at Cook's Country™ for slow-roasted beef. The salt marinade is similar to the method for "koshering" beef -- but the loin is never used. The salt both flavors and tenderizes by dissolving muscle proteins, mostly myosin, I would guess. Prepared January 23, 2010.

Cross-Cut Porterhouse Roast 

with Haricot Vert and Roasted Potatoes

2 inch thick Angus Porterhouse, about 2-1/2 lbs

1 T olive oil

1 T kosher salt

freshly ground pepper, to taste

garlic granules, to taste

Sauce

1/4 c brandy
2 T butter
2 T capers, rinsed, drained, and chopped
1 t fresh thyme
1/2 c light cream

To cook at 6 pm, start at 10 am. Rub salt evenly on all surfaces, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate about 6 hours. Let steak warm to room temperature. Wipe surfaces carefully with a paper towel to remove excess salt and dry the meat so that it will brown and crust in the oil. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Saute in 12 inch oven proof sizzling hot saute pan over medium-high heat in olive oil. Will be smoke, so turn on range hood. About 5 minutes a side, until nicely colored. Transfer to the middle rack of the oven to finish cooking. For medium-rare, remove to a platter when temperature in the middle of the steak reads 118 to 120 degrees F (about 48 C). Tent with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. While meat is resting, prepare the sauce. Deglaze pan with brandy, then whisk in the butter, a bit at a time. Off heat, add the seasonings and whisk in the cream. Bring to a slow boil for a few minutes to reduce. Carve into thin slices across the grain by turning pieces of the steak on the side (see Note). Coat slices in sauce and arrange on a dinner platter. Serves 4. Suggested sides:

haricot vert braised in butter and tarragon
oven-roasted yellow potato wedges with rosemary and olive oil

Note: Muscle fascicles in the loin run mostly front-to-back and Porterhouse steaks are cut transversely. Thus to produce the tenderest mouthful of beef, it should be cut en face. That is, bone out the steak, cut into large pieces, turn sideways, and cut thin slices across the surface with a very sharp knife. This also separates the well done from the rare. Take your pick.

Tuna-Helper Helper

Recorded January 28, 2010. Fresh broccoli boosts flavor and noursishment.

1 pkg Creamed Broccoli Tuna Helper™
1-1/2 cups water
1-1/2 cup milk
1 7-oz can albacore tuna, including pack water
3 T low-fat soft margarine
2 T dry minced onion
1/8 t crushed red pepper
1 stalk of broccoli
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Prepare Tuna Helper™ according to package directions except include the dry onion and crushed red pepper. Cut the broccoli into bite-size piece and microwave two minutes on high and set aside. When the noodles have five minutes more to finish, add the par-cooked broccoli, and continue cooking until it's just tender. Fold in the cheese, cover, and wait 10 minutes to let the sauce thicken. Serves four.

Easy-Open, Crunchy Pistachios

Recorded January, 31, 2010. Mild heat makes them even easier to open and crisps and refreshes the nut meats.

approx. 1 cup dry roasted pistachios in the shell

Preheat toaster oven to 250 degrees F (120 C). Spread nuts in a single layer in a metal pan. Roast 10 minutes. Allow to cool. Shell and reserve meats. Keep in a dry cool place.

REVIEW Byrd's Barbecue

REVIEW
Byrd's Barbecue
2816 Cheek Rd
Durham, NC 27704
Phone: (919) 530-1839
http://www.byrdsbbq.com/
M to F, 7 am to 7 pm
 
In short: Solid, savory, and cheap. $/***1/2.

Originally posted February 2009 to triangle.dining Usenet group. Son Jon and I lunched today (Wednesday) at Byrd's. An online comment mentioned that they offered a ribs or brisket special on Wednesdays. Who could resist? The place is on Cheek Rd., less than a mile east of the Cheek Rd. exit off US-70. On the right, you will see a simple single-story building with plenty of parking surrounding. A sign on top indicates they have been smoking meat since 1959. No pig statue evident anywhere!

Just inside the front door you enter a simple cheerful dining room, brightly lit by many windows. C&W plays quietly on the boom box propped above the vinegar assortment and plastic tableware. To order, pass through the dining room to the counter behind and place your order. They offer both sandwiches and plates. Desserts too. We both ordered the rib plate special. Includes two sides and free bottomless ice tea.

Take a seat in the dining room (almost empty at 2 pm), and the counterman will deliver your food when ready. Each plate held generous portions of ribs, the sides, and pups. The ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, meaty, and moist. Lightly dressed with a tangy sauce, tomatoey and slightly sweet with molasses with a mild smoke flavor. The green beans were simply seasoned with salt and pepper and appeared to NOT be slick with fat back. I also ordered "fried corn on the cob". Sounds like a state fair item but turned out to be very tasty with a caramelized color and flavor. Frying rescues frozen corn! The pups were crisp, fresh out of the fryer, and slightly sweetened. The tea was homemade and delicious. Son ordered the ribs too, but had mac and cheese and fries as sides. Said the m&c was "gooey", that is, very good. He pronounced all MOST acceptable. Plates were $7.99, including tea. I took half of it home with me for later.

As we left, I ducked in to tell the counterman and the cook how much we enjoyed their food. Both were conspicuously grateful. I promised to put the good news online. Here 'tis. Y'all come.

Rigatoni, Sweet Italian Sausage, & Peppers

Prepared January 20, 2010.

1 lb sweet Italian sausage, bulk or removed from links
2 T olive oil
2 T tomato paste 
1 t fennel seed
2 t Italian seasoning
1/2 t crushed red pepper
1 c sweet red peppers, cut into large irregular pieces
1 c sweet green peppers, cut into large irregular pieces 
1 leeks, white part only, sliced
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 T finely minced garlic
3/4 c red table wine
26 oz container prepared marinara sauce
28 oz can diced tomatoes
about 1/2 c pasta water
2 t salt
1/2 t freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c fresh basil, torn into pieces

1 or 2 lb dry rigatoni, depending on desired yield

Heat olive oil in a heavy 6-quart sauce pan over medium-high heat. Cut or tear the sausage meat into bite-size pieces and fry in the oil. When nicely browned, clear a spot, add a bit of oil, then toast the herbs and tomato paste for a minute and then add the peppers. As they begin to color, add the leeks and onions. After a minute or two, clear a spot and add the garlic. After 30 seconds, mix into the vegetables. Continue frying until they begin to soften. Add the wine, and scrape up the fond. When reduced by half, add the tomatoes and marinara sauce. Fast simmer covered at least an hour, stirring occasionally. Add salt, pepper, and basil when done. Boil the rigatoni in plenty of salted water until al dente. Mix the drained pasta with about the sauce adding pasta water as necessary. Alternatively, cook only 1 pound of pasta, and reserve half the sauce for later use. Simmer for a few minutes to finish cooking the pasta. Drizzle on some nice olive oil. Pass grated Parmesan cheese. Serves a crowd.

Abbrev. Used in this Website

t        teaspoon; 5 ml
T        tablespoon; 15 ml
oz      ounce; 30 ml as a volume, or 28 g as a mass
c        cup; 8 oz (~24 dl) by volume
qt      quart; 32 oz, scant liter (0.96 L) by volume
AP      All-Purpose (unbleached flour)
EVOO  extra-virgin olive oil
lb       pound; 454 g

Orangeade by the Quart Quickly

Recorded March 18, 2006. March! Already warm! Less acidic than straight juice but thirst quenching.

12 oz cold water

4 oz ice

2 T sugar

2 c prepared orange juice (Simply Orange™ is hard to beat)

To a one-quart plastic bottle, add the water and the sugar, shake until dissolved, add ice, and shake until it's melted. Bring to the 4-cup mark with orange juice, and mix gently by inversion (to reduce loss of vitamin C by oxidation). Chill. Serves 2 to 3.

Tuna Noodle Hot Dish

Prepared and recorded January 14, 2010. An improv lunch.

8 oz package elbow macaroni

1 can cream of mushroom soup (Campbell's™ of course)
about 1/2 can of milk
1 5 oz can chunk light tuna with pack water
2 T dried minced onion
1 small can mushrooms with pack water
2 roasted piquillo peppers, diced
1 t Frank's RedHot Original Hot Sauce™ 
salt and pepper to taste
grated parmesan cheese

Preheat toaster oven to 325 ºF. Boil noodles for about 12 minutes in two quarts of well-salted water, until just tender. Drain well. In the same saucepan over medium heat, combine all the other ingredients except the cheese. Mix well, stir in the cooked noodles, and heat through. Transfer to an 8X8 inch metal baking pan. Sprinkle on a generous layer of parmesan. Bake 30 minutes uncovered. Let stand about 15 minutes at room temperature before serving. Serves 3 to 4.

Onion-Tomato-Cucumber Salad

Onion-Tomato-Cucumber Salad

Inspired by the small salad served in tomato season at Bullock's, Durham's beloved "meat + three" restaurant. Marinade adapted March, 2008 from a recipe on cooks.com

Marinade:

2 oz vegetable oil (To double: 1/2 c)
1 oz apple cider vinegar (1/4 c)
1 t salt (2 t)
1/2 t ground black pepper (1 t)
1 t sugar (2 t)
1/2 t dry minced parsley (1 t)
1/4 t mayonnaise (1/2 t)
1/4 t Dijon mustard (1/2 t)

Vegetables:

1/2 large cucumber, peeled, cut into 1-inch wedges
1 large ripe tomato, cut into large cube
1/2 large sweet onion, blossom cut through poles

Combine the marinade ingredients, except for the oil, in a Good Seasons bottle; cover and shake well. Let stand 10 minutes; add oil and shake vigorously. [The mustard and mayonnaise help stabilize the suspension.] Combine vegetables in a serving bowl. Pour marinade over vegetables, combine, and refrigerate 2 hours before serving, turning occasionally. Keeps well in refrigerator for a day or two.

Cheese-Onion Grits

Inspired by Elmo Barnes' 'world's best grits' as served at Cousin Martha's B&B in Beaufort, NC. First prepared January, 2010. A novel, lump-free method was introduced in April, 2020.

1/2 small yellow onion, diced
1 T olive oil 
1 c water
1 c milk
1/2 t salt
1/2 cup stone-ground grits
1/2 c grated sharp cheddar cheese
2 T grated parmesan cheese
pepper to taste

Saute the onion in the oil over medium heat in a medium saucepan until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the water, milk, grits and and salt and bring to a fast simmer with constant stirring. Cook over medium heat until the mixture thickens to a creamy texture, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Lower heat as needed to control splatter. Off heat, stir in the cheddar cheese until well combined and then the parmesan. Serve at once. Serves 4, as part of a 'country breakfast', sausage, grits, fried eggs, coffee, and OJ. Variation: Saute the kernels and cream from a large ear of sweet corn with the onions.

Dorothy's Stewed Meatballs

Reconstructed by DrDaddy from Phyllis Pliskow's hand-written notes recalling Dorothy Magid's recipe. Recorded 18 November 2005.

Carrots, Onions, Celery, Peppercorns, and Allspice Simmer

Broth:

4 onions coarsely cut through the poles (Note: preserves structure)
4 large carrots coarsely cut
1 cup cut celery
about 1/4 c ketchup (see Note)
3 allspice berries + 6 peppercorns (put in cheese cloth or tea ball)
1 T salt

Place ingredients in an 6-quart pot, cover with water, bring to boil,
and then simmer covered until onions are soft.

Meatballs:

1 lb ground sirloin
1 large onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, mashed
about 1/2 cup matzoh meal, or dry bread crumbs, as needed to form balls 
salt, pepper, garlic powder

3 white potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 c cabbage, coarsely chopped

Form small meatballs with wet hands. When broth is ready,
raise heat to a boil and add the meatballs, cabbage, and potatoes.
Simmer slowly, partly covered until potatoes and cabbage are tender.
Remove spices before serving. Serves 6 or more.

 Dorothy with cigarette in Phyl's garden

Note:

That is, about what can be rinsed out of an "empty" bottle, or to taste. What triggered our mom to make this dish, which we all loved, was when the Heinz ketchup bottle reached the state where no amount of robust thumping of the overturned bottle would coax any more out.

Three Bean Chili

First prepared December 25, 2009. A Family Favorite and SIGNATURE DISH. A few things distinguish the recipe: Use of three beans, the high meat content, large meat pieces, and low tomato content. Looks pretty, is delicious, and packs a wallop nutritionally.

1 T vegetable oil
2 lbs (950 g)lean ground beef 
2 c (400 g) yellow onions, coarsely diced
2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 T ground cumin
1 t Mexican oregano
1/4 t (or more) crushed red pepper flakes
2 T tomato paste
1/2 c dry red wine
1 can each (15 to 19 oz) black, pinto, and cannellini beans, undrained
1 7-oz can chopped green chilies (Ortega™ is good)
1 can (10 oz) diced tomatoes with green chilies
about 1 c tomato juice (or water) as needed to thin
salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers in a heavy dutch oven. Brown meat, about 8 minutes. Cut it into 1/2 inch lumps as it cooks. Add the onions and garlic. Cook until clear but not brown. Add the herbs and tomato paste, and lightly cook them. Add the wine and reduce until evaporated. Add the tomatoes, chilies, and beans, scrapping the bottom of the pan to release the brown bits. Add the juice (or water) to adjust the thickness. Simmer covered for two hours, gently stirring every 1/2 hour or so. Season to taste. We like some heat but add more red pepper flakes if you prefer hotter. Yields 6 to 8 servings, over steamed rice or boiled spaghetti.
Toppings: finely-chopped sweet or red onion, shredded cheese, sour cream, Louisiana hot sauce, and tomato salsa all step up the taste.

Microwave Rice

Yields a product similar to a rice cooker.

2-1/2 c water
1-1/2 c long grain rice, rinsed and drained
1/2 t salt

Place the ingredients in a deep, microwavable container (e.g., a 46 oz margarine tub). Cover loosely. Microwave (1250 watts) on high until it boils, and then on 20% power for 12 minutes more. Open cautiously. Fluff with a fork. Let stand 10 minutes uncovered to cool and dry. Yields 4 cups (about 800 g).

Baked Flounder and Rice

Fish, Leeks, Onions, & Rice Ready to Serve

Conceived and first prepared December 23, 2009. A Family Favorite.

12 oz fresh or frozen and defrosted flounder filets, cut into portions
1 c leeks, julienned
1 medium onion, thinly sliced through the poles
1 t dry oregano
1/4 t crushed red pepper
2 T olive oil plus more for drizzling
2 T butter
2 T capers, rinsed and drained
1 bay leaf
1/4 c Spanish olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
1/4 c Peppadew® peppers, coarsely chopped (see Note)
juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 c chicken stock
4 c steamed white rice

Heat oil and butter until sizzling in a 10-inch skillet. Add leeks and onions, spices and bay leaf. Cook on medium heat about 10 minutes until softened and beginning to color. Remove the bay leaf. Add the olives, peppers and capers and warm through. Spread the rice in the bottom of a 9 X 13 inch glass baking dish, arrange the fish on top, sprinkle on some olive oil. and distribute the sauteed vegetables over the fish and rice. Squeeze on lemon juice, scatter zest, and pour stock around. Bake uncovered in 300 degree F (150 C) oven for about 40 minutes until fish flakes. Serves 4 to 6.

Peppadew® peppers
[Photographer Unknown]

Note From Wiki: Peppadew® is a brand of sweet piquant pepper, a patented cultivar of Capsicum baccatum, grown in the Limpopo province of South Africa. They are sweet, fruity, and pleasantly warm. Sold seeded (to reduce the heat) and lightly pickled. About 1100 Scovill units. They are sold in jars and at food store deli bars. Substitute sweet or hot cherry peppers.

REVIEW Bergama Cafe Durham NC [Closed August, 2013]

Bergama Cafe
3520 Hillsborough Road
Durham NC
(919) 383-0300‎
http://bergamacafe.com/

In a word, delish!
3.5/5 stars - $$ (to use Greg Cox 's shorthand ratings)

Recorded 12-17-09
[After dragging myself to the finish line on a very burdensome writing project last night, I was exhausted, unkempt, grizzled, and hungry. I took son Jon to Tommies for smokes and a Coke, and easily determined we were both hungry, and a Middle Eastern supper at a new neighborhood restaurant was appealing. About 8:30 we were seated. The place was empty. Sad, and so unfitting. They have wonderful food and are lovely and interesting people. He's from Chechnya  and his wife is from Turkey.}

The venue: Was a Burger King for many years on heavily traveled Hillsborough Rd near I-85 and US 15-501. Was converted to a "serious" sit down place a few years ago, and has yet to foster a place for a great restaurant, although the need is real for that part of town.

Me: Dolmas and Roasted Potatoes with vegetable gravy - Excellent $12, including sides. Glass of Sutter Home White Zin, $4.25, $20 with tax and tip.
Sides Pizza Bread Sticks/herb-seasoned EVOO - V. Good
Salad Bar One Trip - Limited but Excellent

The stuffed cabbage rolls (5 were presented) were lovely, as were the roasted potatoes. The whole was covered with a flavorsome gravy of cooked cabbage, onions, and the pan gravy. The seasonings were subtle, peppery, and aromatic. The salad bar was limited in offerings but all the ingredients were fresh and crisp. Very tasty ranch dressing. The bread sticks were baked from pizza dough, and so were nicely chewy. A plate of flavored oil on the side for dipping was provided. More bread was offered later in the meal. Service was friendly and attentive (we were initially the only diners) although our waitress seemed new and knew little about the menu.

Wine list (on a Corona placard!) is brief and laughable with the odd surprise. Greek vin ordnaire at $8/glass. "Straight from Greece" it says. Where else for Greek wine?

Jon: Gyro platter. Very attractively sliced and folded roast meat, arranged on a bed of grilled pitas. $10.95; $16.00 with tax and tip. Sides: Bread sticks, salad bar, rice pilaf,  steamed vegetable medley - Jon pronounced it all excellent. He drank ice water. A Best Buy.
 
This place needs some changes to succeed. It would be a shame if tasty ethnic fare doesn't succeed. Bergama needs menu design advice; a better web presence; a better street impact to attract diners from heavy traffic on street. Better wine list. Ethnic clarity of offerings. Pizza? Italian? Greek? Turkish? "Middle Eastern". Menu needs to educate better.

Home Fries

Recorded 2-10-07

2 lbs Russet potatoes, whole
2 tsp salt
1/4 medium onion, blossom-cut into thin pieces
1/8 cup low-fat margarine
1/8 cup canola oil
onion powder, paprika, salt, pepper as seasonings

Put the potatoes in a pot, cover with water, add salt, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a slow boil for 15 minutes. Test with a sharp knife. Potatoes should be part-cooked. Turn off heat and let stand covered 20 minutes. This lets the heat penetrate evenly. Pour off hot water and shock with a few changes of cold water until not too hot to handle. Slip off skins under running cold water, dry, cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 1/2 inch slices. Heat fat in a skillet over medium-high heat and add potatoes and onions, and seasonings to taste. Turn every few minutes, taking care not to burn them. They should brown and crisp. Fry about 15 minutes total.

Yields four generous servings. Loaded with calories! Goes well with poached eggs (see recipe).

Perfectly Poached Eggs

Recorded February 2, 2007. Adapted from Julia Child's first TV series on PBS. A family favorite and SIGNATURE DISH.

12 inch non-stick saucepan with 1 1/2 inches water
1 oz white vinegar
2 eggs, at room temperature (freshest possible, USDA grade AA if available)
English muffin split, toasted, and buttered [Thomas™ is best]

Add the vinegar to the water and over medium heat bring to a fast simmer. Crack an egg carefully into a small bowl with a flat edge. Lower the edge the bowl under the water and gently tip the egg into the hot water. Repeat for the other egg. Let them both sit undisturbed in the hot water until the whites begin to set up. Gently loosen with a spatula so they are floating. Spoon hot water over the eggs to help them cook on top. After the whites are set and the yolks are beginning to thicken (about 3 minutes), lift each egg out with a slotted spoon. Blot bottom and top with a clean towel. Put a muffin (or biscuit) half on top of the egg and holding it in place with the free hand, invert and place on the serving plate. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serves one. May be doubled but don't overcrowd pan. Goes well with a side of home fries.

Eggs Benedetto

Prepared and recorded December 18, 2009. Substitutes prosciutto de Parma for Canadian bacon, and uses a commercial, but authentic, Hollandaise.

Eggs Benedetto with a side of Hash Browns

2 Perfectly Poached Eggs
English muffin, split and well toasted
butter, softened
prepared Hollandaise sauce (Trader Joe™)
1 thin slice prosciutto

Start the muffin toasting and the water boiling. Prepare two poached eggs. Warm the prosciutto in small skillet in a little water to rinse out some salt. Assemble stacks when eggs are done: muffin, lightly buttered; then a small pile of prosciutto; then an egg; top with a generous covering of Hollandaise gently warmed in the microwave.

Brandy Alexander

Recorded December 18, 2009. Made according to the recipe of Merry's mother. First experienced circa 1961 in their living room in Pleasant Ridge, MI, as an annual yuletide wassail.

150 ml (about 5-1/3 oz) each:
cheap but decent domestic brandy (e.g., E&J™, Christian Brothers™)
creme de Cocoa (cheap is fine)
half and half (fresh and sweet)

Gently mix the liquids together in a one-pint bottle and chill before serving or shake with ice to dilute alcohol content and reduce the sweetness. Yields 4 4-ounce servings. Caution: These are not chocolate milk!

Braised Cabbage

Recorded 1-03-07 (at long last)

1 small head of green or red cabbage (about 2-1/2 lbs),
  quartered, cored, and cut into 1 inch pieces
1/3 cup low-fat soft margarine
salt, pepper, paprika

Put cabbage in a large skillet, cover half way with water and salt lightly. Cover and bring to a moderate boil. Boil 8 minutes and drain well in a colander. Return to pan over medium-low heat, add margarine and seasonings to taste. Mix and braise uncovered slowly about 12 to 14 minutes until tender, turning occasionally.

Good as a side to many dishes. Can be added to vegetable soups or used in veggie burritos or added to buttered egg noodles.

Serves 6

Ben's Guacamole

Recorded January 28, 2006. This should be made in a molcajete, a large Mexican mortar and pestle, rough hewn from basalt. Other tools, such as Thai products carved from granite may be suitable but a smooth surface will not work. Buy a molcajete at most any tienda Mexicana that sells groceries. It can be used to make a wide range of salsas and marinades. About $15, or more for a fancy one. Hand-carved lava and last a lifetime — what a value! An alternative approach is described here.

2 ripe Haas avocados
2 cloves garlic
2 jalepeno peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 T whole cumin seed
1 fistful cilantro
juice of 1 lime
1 small red onion finely chopped
2 Roma tomatoes, seeded, chopped and drained
salt to taste

Start with tomatoes to give them time to drain.  Halve avocados, remove pit and scoop out flesh. Place it in a bowl, immediately squeeze lime juice over, stir to coat. Add cumin to molcajete and grind completely.  Repeat with jalepeno, cilantro and garlic in that order (makes it easier). Now add avocado one half at a time.  Mash them completely. As the bowl fills it will become harder to mash effectively. This is OK; it will give the guacamole a more "homemade" texture. If you are making this recipe with more than 2-3 avocados, simply transfer to a bowl and mash the next avocados. Season with salt and residual lime juice to taste. Add the onions and tomatoes. Make sure to get as much juice out of the tomatoes as possible, as it will turn the mixture brown. You can serve right away, but it is better if you give it an hour to meld. Cover with plastic wrap so that there is no air between the dip and the wrap. Serve with chips and limes. Serves 2-6.

Easy Microwave Rice

Recorded 11-23-09

1 cup long-grain rice
1-2/3 cup water
1/2 t salt

Combine ingredients in a deep microwavable container (I use a large margarine tub). Cover loosely (I use an oversize plastic top.) Microwave on the 'Rice' setting of your microwave, or program yours for 6 minutes on high, and 12 minutes on 20 percent power (assuming a 1450 watt oven). Uncover carefully (live steam!) and fluff with a fork before serving. Yields a product similar to a rice cooker but works nicely for small quantities.

Serves 3 to 4.

Quick Apple Compote

Prepared and recorded November 23, 2009. Does nicely as a fruit course for breakfast or brunch.

1 medium apple, peeled, cored and sliced in thin wedges
about 1/2 t sugar
1/4 t ground cinnamon
1/4 c apple cider
1/4 t tapioca or corn starch
1 T cream (optional)

Place apples in a glass bowl. Add the other ingredients, and mix well, to disperse the starch and flavorings. Cover with plastic foil, and microwave on high for two minutes. Vent the steam carefully, and turn gently to mix. Microwave uncovered another 1 to 2 minutes, until apples are cooked tender-crisp. Serve warm, topped with cream or half-and-half. Serves 2.

RAVE
Honeycrisp™ apples are fantastic. Named the state fruit of Minnesota in 2006. Sweet, tangy, fruity, crisp, complex, versatile. I just tried them. Should have done sooner! (Fuji, don't worry, I still love you too. And Cortland, where Laura raised her kids.)

NOTE
Zeigler's Cider is excellent. Made in Lansdale, Pennsylania. Always fresh and distinctively applish. Can vary in sweetness during the season.

DISCLAIMER

All trademarks referred to on this site belong to their registered owners. Their use is solely to indicate our personal preferences among the products available locally. It means nothing else.

Quick Corn and Crab Chowder

Developed November 18, 2009. When DrDaddy was a kid, our mom, Dorothy Magid, would make a simple, quick, and nourishing lunch by mixing a can of creamed corn and a can of milk, heating on the stove and adding a big pat of butter. Yumm. This is my homage to her, the most wonderful mother I ever had, and, as a bonus, a quick knockoff of a favorite Chinese banquet dish, Corn Velvet Chowder with Crab Meat. It's an early summer treat when feed corn is "in the cream", only available for a few days before the crop matures and coarsens.

1 14-1/2 oz can creamed corn
1 can of milk
1 T butter
4-1/2 oz canned or cooked crab meat
2 scallions, green and white parts, finely sliced across
1 t salt
freshly-ground pepper, to taste
2 T dry sherry
2 T lemon juice

To prepare the canned crab, dissolve a tablespoon of kosher salt in a pint of water. In a sieve, thoroughly drain the packing liquid from the crab. Stir crab into the salt water and let stand  a few minutes. Thoroughly drain the rinsed crab. Mix the corn, milk and butter together in a medium saucepan. Slowly bring to about 160 degrees F (70 C) over medium heat. The soup will be hot but not boiling. Simmer 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the crab and scallions and rewarm gently. Add seasonings and adjust to taste. Serves 3 to 4, with bread or rolls.
Variation: Saute 1/2 cup of cut corn in the butter before adding the canned corn and milk.

Beef Mushroom Gravy

Developed November 15, 2009. 

1/2 lb brown meadow mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus, marketed as "baby bellas" or cremini)
2 c low-salt beef stock
2 T vegetable oil
1/2 t granulated garlic
2 T dry minced onion
1 T tapioca or corn starch, dispersed in cold stock or water

Heat the oil in a heavy 10-inch skillet until it shimmers. Separate the stems from the mushroom caps, chop the stems, and slice the caps. Sauté the chopped stems for a few minutes and add the sliced caps. Sauté until well browned, add the dry onion, granulated garlic, and the beef stock. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Stir the starch mixture and mix into the gravy. When it thickens, take off heat. Taste for salt before serving. Makes about 3 cups.

Turnip Greens

First recorded July 4, 2000 and updated often. A Signature Dish and Family Favorite, and a Superfood to boot, jammed with hard-to-get vitamins and minerals. The family loves and eats it readily, seeking seconds, even thirds, and will snack on between meals.

1 lb frozen turnip greens + turnips, or 1 lb fresh greens (turnip, kale, and/or mustard, trimmed, washed thoroughly, drained, and cut across into 2 inch pieces

Pot liquor

1 c of water
3 T low-fat margarine
1 oz country ham, coarsely chopped
2 T dried minced onion
1/4 t crushed red pepper
1/2 t salt
1 T apple cider vinegar
1 t sugar
1/4 t ground black pepper
1/2 t mustard powder

Microwave Method:
Combine pot liquor ingredients in a covered 1-1/2 qt glass bowl. Microwave for 4 min on high, stirring once. Add the frozen greens and stir. Microwave 2 minutes on high. Stir and microwave another 2 minutes. Stir and microwave for 30 minutes on 20% power, stirring half way through.
Stove Top Method:
Combine pot liquor ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer 5 minutes. Add the greens, return to a gentle boil, turning a few times, for 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to a simmer for 30-35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add water as needed. Serves 4 to 6.

Oven-Braised Spare Ribs Smothered in Onions

Created and first cooked December 15, 2005, and many times since. A Family Favorite.

5 to 6 lb slab pork ribs, trimmed of fat and membranes, and cut into 2 rib portions (see Note)
2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced through poles
1/4 c ketchup
1/4 c apple cider vinegar
1/2 c water
garlic powder
cumin
cayenne
paprika (smoked, if available)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (177 C). Arrange ribs, meaty side up, in a roasting pan with a cover. Combine liquids and pour over meat; dust on seasonings to taste. Top with sliced onions. Cover. Roast 30 minutes, turn over rib portions, reduce heat to 325 ºF and roast another 60 minutes covered, turning once after 30 minutes. Remove cover, turn meat, and brown for 30 to 40 minutes, basting occasionally. Meat should be very tender, almost falling off the bone. Serve with steamed rice topped with the onions and pan gravy. Fried apples and braised red cabbage make nice sides. Feeds 6 heartily.

Note: Choose small slabs (5 to 6 lbs). They come from younger animals, and are generally more tender and less fatty.

Steamed Egg Custard Soup

Devised April 2, 2008 from a remembered recipe learned in Seattle in the late 60's from a simple cookbook, now lost. Many US towns and cities support shops that sell Asian foods.

4 eggs
2 t dark sesame oil
3 c chicken broth
1 Chinese sausage, rinsed and thinly sliced
2 oz preserved salt turnip, rinsed well and thinly sliced
2 t dark soy sauce

2 green onions, finely sliced

In a 1-1/2 quart glass bowl, beat the eggs and sesame oil together. Mix in the broth, sausage, turnip, and soy sauce. Place the bowl in a steamer for 30 minutes. Ladle into small bowls, garnish with the green onions, and drizzle on a little soy sauce. Serves 6 as part of a Chinese meal

Easy Dirty Rice

Yields a more flavorsome, drier, lower in fat, and less spicy product than the recipe on the box. Recorded 14 January 2001.

1/2 lb mild pork sausage
1 box Zatarain's™ Dirty Rice Mix
1/2 c long-grain rice
3 c water

In a heavy 2-quart pot, brown the sausage thoroughly. Remove to a wire strainer to drain away the fat. Bring the water to a boil in the same pot. Add rice, rice mix and cooked sausage to pot. Lower heat, stir, cover and simmer 25 minutes. Toss and hold covered for serving. Serves 4 or 5. Variation: Very Dirty Rice. Sir in a 1/2 cup of coarsely chopped sauted chicken livers after the rice is finished streaming.

Breakfast Burrito

Inspired by the McDonald's™ product. First prepared November 8, 2008.

2 new potatoes, micro-waved 4 minutes, peeled and diced
1/2 lb fresh country pork sausage (Gunnoe's is good)
1/2 c coarsely chopped onion
2 oz canned chopped green chilies
1 small tomato, seeded and chopped

6 large eggs, well beaten and fluffy
1/4 c half and half
salt and pepper to taste

shredded Mexican cheese
6 large flour tortillas, steamed in microwave
mild salsa

In a skillet over medium heat, brown sausage lightly. Drain, reserving fat, and set aside. Return 2 T sausage fat to skillet, add potato and onion and continue cooking until tender. Add tomato and chilies and heat through. Add cooked sausage and mix. Add eggs-cream mixture over moderate heat and scramble until soft but not overcooked. Assemble on tortilla: cheese, egg mixture, salsa. Fold up bottom third, then in half, and then again lengthwise, leaving top open. Serve with salsa on the side. Serves 6.
CHEFS Tortilla Warmer - White (Google Affiliate Ad)

Rave: Plouts

[This post repeats a contribution I made to the Usenet news group, triangle.dining in August, 2007.]

I chanced upon these fruits at Kroger last week, bought one, and let it ripen.

Bit into it, and was rewarded with a super-sweet juicy flesh much like a plum. No sourness or bitterness. Tender skin. Gorgeous flame-red flesh. I don't recall the variety but it looked like "Flavor Supreme".

Googling pluot (pronounced plue-ott) I learned it is a complex hybrid patented in 1989 by Floyd Zaiger said to be the modern Luther Burbank of stone fruits. Two-thirds plum (the plu-), one-third apricot (the -ot) (but I couldn't detect any apricot quality. There are more than a dozen cultivars.

Try 'em, you will love 'em. Harris-Teeter is offering 4 varieties this week at $2/lb.

Read more at Wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pluot

Pan Fried Potatoes

[Recorded 11-11-09]

1-1/2 lbs medium russet potatoes (about 5)
1/2 cup red or sweet white onion, blossom cut (see NOTE)
2 T canola oil
2 T butter
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 t sweet paprika

Rinse the potatoes and cover with cold water in a 2 qt sauce pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat, cover tightly and boil slowly for 6 to 8 minutes. Turn off heat but leave pan covered on the burner for 20 minutes. Drain the warm potatoes well, and slice lengthwise, and then crosswise in 1/4 inch slices.

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet until shimmering, add the butter, and when the sizzling stops, add the onions. Saute two minutes. Add the potatoes, taking care to separate the slices. Saute for about seven minutes, until browned on one side. Turn, season, and continue frying until both sides are nicely colored and cooked through.

NOTE

Blossom cut, means like petals. Slice the onion in half through the equator. (Large onions can be cut equatorially twice more into four pieces.) Then cut pole to pole along longitudes.

Serves 3 to 4.

RAVE: Nicoise-Coquillo Olives

I first heard about this olive on the PBS program Spain On the Road Again, that follows the travels and feasting of  an American cook who lived there as a youth (Mario Batali), an American actress (Gwyneth Paltrow), an American food writer (Mark Bittman), and a stunningly beautiful Spanish TV actress who trained partly at UNC-Wilmington and who worked in the US (Claudia Bassols). They were joined in this episode set in Barcelona by American composer, singer, and friend of Paltrow, the neurasthenic Michael Stipe.

They spent the better part of the evening tapas tasting at the "best tapas restaurant in the World" in the company of the couple who founded and operate the place. The husband is apparently an icon in the Spanish cooking hagiography and is a damn fine cook, quiet leader and inspiring teacher of sous, waitstaff, etc. by the looks of it.

One of the many courses was a selection of olives. As one who grew up with pitted ripe California olives on his fingers, this was an eye opener. So many kinds! So many flavors and curing and spicing. I was most engaged by tiny olives that are mottled green-brown-black. The pits seem almost as large as the fruits. The flesh is a bit spicy, sour, and fruity. They are often available on the Mediterranean appetizer bar at a Durham megamart. An essential component of salade nicoise (salad in the Nice fashion).

A warm olive assortment is a nice way to dress up a plain breakfast of creamy cottage cheese and buttered rye toast.