Spaetzle (German-style noodle dumplings)

Spaetzle Maker (internet)

Developed Spring 2018 from a traditional recipe.

2 eggs
2/3 c milk
½ t salt
¼ t ground nutmeg
2 c flour
¼ c butter or schmaltz
beef gravy (optional)

In a large bowl, beat the eggs well. Stir in the milk, salt, and nutmeg. Half-cup at a time, stir in the flour with a spoon, until all is incorporated.  Let stand 30 minutes to hydrate the flour and permit gluten formation. Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a rapid boil in a six-quart saucepan.  Fill the basket of spaetzle maker with the dough, and position over boiling water.  Pressing down on the dough mass, slide the basket back and forth over the grate until the water boiling slows.  Boil a few minutes until the spaetzlen rise and are firm. Lift out with a mesh strainer to a skillet of hot melted butter or rendered fat.  Fry until crusted on bottom, and top with gravy. Serves six.

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Rant: Supermarkets Must Stop Drowning Our Veggies. How to Fight Back.

Supermarkets these days commonly display fresh vegetables such as parsley, lettuce, spinach, and the like moistened by overhead sprayers triggered by timers. Customers who see that think unwittingly that it is done to maximize the 'freshness' of the veggies. Oh no. Their purpose is perverse. Their true purpose, as we know it from its inevitable effects, is to shorten shelf life after purchase by maximizing spoilage due to bacterial and fungal growth. Water is life. Without 'free' water microorganisms, can't grow.

And so, water can be the great destroyer. What to do? When you get a bunch of parsley or a head of celery home, remove the rubber bands that kill cells by reverse osmosis and stand them up to dry in your dish drainer. When dry, wrap loosely in dry paper towels (paper is sterile) and then in a loose plastic bag. Check every few days. Replace wet paper with fresh. Let the veggies breath. They are alive. Because plants are loaded with water (up to 90%) and because of gravity pushing reverse osmosis, the paper will need replacement from time to time. Manage your foodstuffs and minimize spoilage!

Leg of Lamb Roasted with Potatoes and Garlic

Developed December, 2019. Adapted from a method shown by Ira Garten on Food Network TV.

Roast Lamb with Potatoes and Garlic

5 to 6 lb (2.5 kg) boneless leg of lamb, tied or netted
1/4 c (half stick) butter
2 T fresh rosemary leaves, finely minced
2 T kosher salt, divided
1/2 T coarsely ground black pepper
3 T minced garlic
4 lb (2 kg) yellow or red potatoes, whole or quartered, skins on (omit for keto)
1/4 c olive oil
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled

An hour before roasting, rinse and dry the roast. Place it in a large roasting pan. Melt the butter in a small bowl in the microwave, stir in half the salt and the other seasonings and spread all over the top of the roast and let stand at room temperature. Preheat the oven to 450 F (230 C) and position the rack to midway. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes and unpeeled garlic cloves, the oil, half the salt, and mix well. Surround the roast with the potatoes and place in the oven uncovered. Roast for 75 to 90 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 135 F (60 C). Tent with aluminum foil and let rest 15 minutes. Cut thin slices horizontally along the roast. Arrange on a platter with the roast potatoes. Serves 10 or more. Roast asparagus are a good side dish.

Quick Radish Pickle

Developed December, 2019. Ideal when you want to add something tangy and colorful to a plate.

1 large red radish
1/2 t red wine vinegar
1/2 t water
1/4 t sugar
1/8 t salt

Shave the radish paper thin on a mandolin or V-slicer. Combine the other ingredients in a small bowl. Stir in the radish slices and hold 5 minutes. Drain and pile like petals as a garnish or accent. Serves 1. Increase proportions as needed to make more servings.

Greene's Onion Burgers

A Detroit tradition, once operating at many busy corner grills across the region, now reduced to a single suburban outlet. Greene's cranked out thousands of simple, tasty cheap onion burgers with a very limited set of sides. No deep fryer. DrDaddy made his supper from these 'trefedick' sinkers on the nights after public school when he attended Hebrew school as he pursued his Bar Mitzvah status, just 70 yards from the Greene's white-tile walls. Counter service and carryout only. Years later, he would return to take away burgers. Now, to simulate the experience of carryout and the drive home to deliver the goodies, the sandwiches are wrapped in wax paper, bagged, and held 10 minutes before serving.

8 1/6 lb (75 g) ground chuck, formed into balls
plentiful white onions, thinly sliced into rings on a mandolin
8 soft white buns (toasted, optional)
pickle chips
ketchup
yellow mustard

12x12 inch wax paper squares
paper bags

Heat the griddle to 325 F (165 C). With a stiff spatula, press a large raft of onions into  each ball of meat and flatten them together. Salt well, and press again. Open each bun and put the top on the bottom. When juices appear on upper surface of patty, flip and place bun on top. After a minute, lift patty and turn top of bun over, and put top on bottom. Flip and drop. Lift top of bun, add three pickle chips, a squirt of ketchup and of mustard. Wrap each burger in wax paper and groups the sandwiches in a bag. Pour a beer if you like. Wait. Reheat the bag in µwave if you must.

Hint: How to Break Down an Onion

Recorded October 30, 2013. Revised November 25, 2019. Revised May 29, 2021  

This discussion of how to turn an onion into slices and reasonably-uniform dice was adopted from a science of cooking course I teach to older adults at the local university. My hope was to show how understanding onion anatomy helpss to produce the best shape for the dish you are preparing, efficiently, safely, and with a minimum of tears.

An onion is formed of concentric layers made of tightly-packed tubules that transport water from the roots up to the leaves and carry nutrients made in the leaves down to the bulb for storage. These vessels run parallel to each other from root to leaf tip. This means that when you slice in the 'polar' direction, that is, parallel to polar axis from root to stem, you will cause the least cellular damage. Use this cut when you want onion pieces to keep their shape during cooking or perhaps in a salad. On the other hand, the equatorial cut slices through all the vessels, and so causes more cellular injury. Use this cut when you want the onions to break down, such as for caramelized onions.

To form dice, cut the onion in half through the poles. I usually rinse and dry the halves to reduce eye irritation. Retain a portion of the root when peeling. Then slice in the polar direction along the radii following the shallow grooves in the surface, stopping just short of the root. Then, to form dice of about equal thickness, cut across the leaves in the equatorial plane. No need to use the slow, dangerous horizontal cut that is classic.

Injured cells release an irritant chemical, syn-propanethial-S-oxide. Use a sharp knife to produce in fewer tears. Also, cold onions release less irritant because chemistry is slower when it's cold.

Quick Gravy

Developed November, 2019. A rapid microwave recipe for a gravy that is suitable for many purposes. It can top chicken, beef, pork, vegetables, or seafood dishes depending on which stock concentrate is used. We recommend the Better Than Bouillon™ product line.

1 c tap water
2 t stock concentrate
pinch of GP Seasoning
1 T tapioca (or corn) starch

Whisk the ingredients together thoroughly in a microwavable container. One that doubles for storage is handy. Heat on high, stirring every 30 seconds, until the mixture boils and thickens, taking care that it not boil over. Yields about a cup. Easily doubled.

Line-Cook Seafood Chowder

Developed November, 2019.This delicious chowder is adapted from a recipe posted to Reddit by a line cook who described it as a “signature soup at my restaurant Patrons love it, and I think you will too.” I agree. Well-balanced, creamy, and economical.

1 oz vegetable or olive oil
½ c (125 ml) chopped red onion
1 c (250 ml) diced celery
½ c (125 ml) diced carrot
3 c (650 g) diced yellow potatoes, skins on
1 T minced garlic
1 T salt
1 10-oz can baby clams with juice + 1.5 cans of water
1 T chicken stock concentrate
250 g cod fillet, or other firm white fish, cut into half-inch cubes
½ T ground black pepper
1 c (250 ml) half and half
2 c (500 ml) milk
1 T dry dill weed
1 T Old Bay seasoning

For the roux:

½ c (one stick) butter
½ c all-purpose flour

In a 6-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the vegetables, garlic, and salt. Heat thoroughly with stirring, cover, and turn off heat. Let the vegetables sweat for 10 minutes to soften the vegetables. Add the clams, clam juice, water, salt, pepper, and the stock concentrate. Cook over medium heat for 10 more minutes. Add the cod to the pot, and simmer for 5 more minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Meanwhile, in a small non-stick skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. When the bubbling stops, slowly stir in the flour. Cook about 4 minutes with constant stirring until the roux turns a light tan and is smooth. Combine the cream and the milk in a large measuring cup, and off heat, slowly pour half the cold dairy into the roux with continuous whisking. When smooth, mix with rest of the dairy remaining in the cup. Stir the roux mixture into the chowder, add the dill weed and Old Bay, and heat to a fast simmer with stirring until the chowder thickens into a smooth creamy texture. Yields about 2-1/2 quarts (liters). Serve with oyster crackers or hot biscuits.

Quick Black Bean,Tomato, & Spinach Soup

This hearty soup makes a satisfying one-pot, one-dish meal. Adapted from an earlier recipe for bean and spinach soup. Developed July, 2019.

2 T tomato paste
1 T olive oil

1 medium tomato, coarsely diced

4 oz kielbasa or andouille sausage, diced

1 t minced garlic
1/2 t ground cumin
1/2 t ground coriander
pinch of red pepper flakes
1 t salt
1 t sugar
16 oz chicken stock
1 14.5 oz can Cuban-style black beans (Bush is good)
6 oz frozen or fresh leaf spinach 

  Heat the oil in a saucepan. Brown the tomato paste in the oil, add the tomato and the sausage and cook until browned. Add the seasonings, heat for a few seconds to bloom the flavor, and then stir in the beans and stock. Cook at a fast simmer over moderate heat with frequent stirring for 20 minutes. Mash the beans with a potato masher. Add the spinach, return to a simmer, and cook for another five minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serves 3 to 4. Pair with crusty bread, tortillas, or hot biscuits, for a complete meal. 

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Pork Cutlets

Pork Cutlet, Lemon Wedges, Braised Cabbage

Developed June, 2019. From freezer to table in less than an hour, this recipe yields a meaty entree similar to wiener schnitzel for a quick mid-week supper from "pantry" ingredients.

4 boneless pork loin chops, about 4.5 oz (125 g) each
general-purpose breader (see recipe)
1/4 c (60 ml) vegetable oil
chicken gravy (see recipe)
lemon wedges (optional)

Pound thawed chops to a 1/4 inch (6 mm) thickness between plastic wrap. Dredge in breader, shake off excess, and lay out to dry on a rack. Heat a 12-inch (30 cm) stainless-steel skillet over medium, add the oil, and when it reaches 325 F (160 C), carefully slide in the cutlets. Fry for about 5 minutes undisturbed but spooning oil over them. Turn over the cutlets and turn off heat. Let them cook through for 2 minutes. Cover with gravy and garnish with lemon wedges. Serves 4. Suggested sides: Peruvian rice and braised cabbage.

Quick Chicken Gravy

Adapted from our recipe for quick beef gravy, this recipe comes together quickly from pantry ingredients.

1 T vegetable oil
1 T wheat flour
1 t poultry seasoning 
1 c hot water, divided
1 T chicken stock base (Better than Bouillon™ is good)
1 t mushroom powder (shiitake or porcini)
1 t sugar
1 t fish sauce (optional)
1 T tapioca (or corn) starch dispersed in 1 T cold water

In a small saucepan, mix flour and oil. Heat over medium until a blonde roux forms, about 4 minutes. Stir in poultry seasoning. Off heat, cautiously add a ¼ cup hot water; stir until a smooth slurry is formed. Add the stock base, the mushroom powder, the sugar, and then the remaining hot water. Stir and simmer 5 minutes. Add the starch slurry, heat to steaming, and stir until it thickens. Easily doubled. 

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Cabbage and Tomato Soup

A light, flavorsome soup makes an appealing breakfast. Add flour tortillas for a more substantial meal.

1 qt water
2 T tomato paste
6 oz Napa cabbage, cut into bitesize pieces
1 small ripe tomato, diced
1 t minced garlic
1 T vegetable oil
1/4 t crushed red pepper
1 t fish sauce (optional)
1 t salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper
3 green onions, cut on bias
1 t vinegar

Combine all ingredients except green onions and vinegar in three-quart saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Cook 15 minutes with occasional stirring. Add the green onions and continue cooking for 10 more minutes. Add vinegar and adjust seasoning to taste. Serves four.

Quick Scallion and Rice Soup

Developed May, 2019 in response to a need for an easy-to-digest, savory comfort food.

1 qt water
1/2 c scallions, cut on an angle
1 oz tomato paste
1 t salt
1 t fish sauce
2 T chicken stock concentrate
1 t butter
3/4 c rice

Gently boil all the ingredients together, except the rice, for 10 minutes. Add the rice and cook 15 minutes with occasional stirring. Adjust seasoning. Serves four.

Quick Vegetable Soup

This soup comes together quickly but delivers solid nourishment, savory taste, and appetizing aroma.

4 c water
1 oz tomato paste
2 c cabbage, coarsely chopped
1 medium tomato, diced

Seasonings

1 t ground cumin
1/2 t ground coriander
2 T chicken or vegetable stock concentrate
2 t salt
1 t sugar
1 t fish sauce
1 t vinegar

1 envelope prepared lentils (Madras brand)
1 medium russet potato

Microwave the potato 3 minutes. When cool, cut into 1/2 inch cubes, and set aside. Meanwhile, in a three-quart saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the cabbage and tomato and boil slowly 20 minutes. Stir in the seasonings, the lentils, and the potatoes. Simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serves four.

Emeril's Essence Creole Seasoning

Esteemed New Orleans cook Emeril Lagasse produces a creole spice blend and published the recipe widely. You can adjust the heat by how much cayenne pepper you include.

2-1/2 T paprika 
2 T salt
2 T garlic powder
1 T black pepper
1 T onion powder
1 T cayenne pepper
1 T dried leaf oregano
1 T dried thyme

Combine the ingredients in a spice mill. Mill until smooth. Store tightly covered in the dark.

Beef Stroganoff

Developed March, 2019. After the slicing is done and the noodles are boiling, the dish comes together in about 10 minutes.

8 oz (250 g) flank or skirt steak
1/4 c (50 ml) flour
8 oz (250 g) brown mushrooms, sliced thickly
6 oz (175 g) frozen pearl onions, thawed
2 T (30 ml) butter
2 T (30 ml) olive oil
2 t (10 ml) minced garlic
3/4 c (175 ml) dry red wine
1-1/2 c (350 ml) beef stock
3/4 c (175 ml) sour cream
2 T (30 ml) paprika, divided
8 oz (250 g) tagliatelle or egg noodles, cooked al dente, and drained

Chill the beef 30 minutes in the freezer, slice thinly across the grain, and flatten each piece. With your fingers, mix the flour with the beef slices, season lightly with salt, and set aside. Heat the oil and butter over medium in a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet until sizzling stops. Add the mushrooms and salt lightly. Cook until softened but not browned. Add the onions and continue frying until softened. Add meat, garlic and half the paprika. Lower the heat and cook until meat loses its rawness. Add the wine, cook until almost gone, and add the stock. Bring to a simmer, stir in the sour cream, the remaining paprika, and the noodles. Cook gently until the sauce has thickened and the noodles are done. Adjust seasoning. Serves 2 to 3.

Oven-Braised Country-Style Beef Chuck Ribs

Developed January, 2019. This cut, sometimes called 'country-style beef ribs' has recently appeared in local markets. It brings a rich beefy flavor, tenderness, and some connective tissue for unctuous mouthfeel.

1-1/2 lb boneless beef chuck ribs
4 T vegetable oil, divided
flour
salt
2 T tomato paste
4 large carrots, peeled, cut lengthwise, and quartered
2 large parsnips, peeled, cut lengthwise, and quartered
1 medium yellow onion, sliced through poles
6 oz large mushrooms, quartered
1 T minced garlic
1-1/2 lb green cabbage. cut into wedges, or 2 c cauliflower florets
3/4 c dry red wine
2 bay leaves
5 peppercorns
2 allspice berries 
about 2 cups beef stock

Heavily salt the meat strips and dust with flour. [Hint: Flour in a shaker jar is useful for this and related purposes.] Heat half the oil over medium high in a large Dutch oven with a tight-fitting cover until it shimmers. Carefully add the beef strips. Fry, turning as it browns on all sides. Preheat oven to 325 F (160 C). Add the tomato paste, and then the vegetables in stages, adding oil and salt as needed, frying between additions. When all except the cabbage have been added and heated through, stir in the garlic, spices, and wine. Cook until reduced by two-thirds. Add enough stock to half cover the meat. Cover and roast about 90 minutes, turning every 30 minutes, until almost cooked. Add the cabbage or cauliflower, return to the oven, and roast until cabbage is tender, about 30 minutes. Serve in bowls over boiled egg noodles or steamed rice if desired. Alternatively, add 8 ounces of prepared potato gnocchi with the cabbage or cauliflower.

Ingredient: Boneless Chicken White Meat

Developed February, 2019. Many tasty dishes can be prepared from cooked chicken white meat. This method yields 8 ounces tender, recipe-ready meat.

8 oz boneless chicken breast cut into 1 inch strips or chicken tenders
2 c chicken stock

In a small saucepan, heat the stock to 160 F (70 C). Place raw chicken in the hot stock, stir, and cover. Turn off heat, and let stand until cool enough to handle. Proceed with recipe or wrap and chill for later use.Reserve enriched stock for another use such as chicken enchiladas.

Buttered Egg Noodles

Developed January, 2019 as an alternative to potatoes, rice or another starchy side dish.

8 oz (225 g) wide egg noodles
1/4 c low-fat margarine (or 2 T butter)
1/4 t garlic powder
1 t paprika
1/2 t salt
1/2 t ground black pepper
1/4 c sour cream
about 1/2 c cooking water

Bring two quarts of salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan, stir in egg noodles, and cook uncovered at a fast simmer for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain well, reserving the cooking water, and return noodles to the saucepan. Stir in margarine or butter until melted, then the seasonings, sour cream, and enough cooking water to produce a smooth but not watery sauce, stirring after each addition. Serves 4.

Boiled Shrimp for Cold Salads

Developed December, 2018. The method prevents overcooking and yields a flavorsome, tender product ideal for a shrimp cocktail or eating off a fork. A tangy cocktail sauce adds to the pleasure.

1 lb large raw shrimp, shells on
1/2 c white vinegar
1/2 c water
2 T Old Bay seasoning
1/2 t salt

In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, water, and seasonings to a boil. Briefly rinse the shrimp in tap water and drain. Add the shrimp to the boil, cover, and remove from heat. Let stand until cool. Drain, briefly rinse, and chill. Shell the shrimp just before serving. Serves 3 or 4 on a bed of head lettuce.

Brick Chicken

This recipe could be titled as "Crispy-Skin Pan Roasted Chicken Thighs" but "Brick Chicken" is more dramatic if less informative. It was adapted August, 2015 from a recipe using chicken breast that appeared on PBS's America's Test Kitchen. Bricks can be purchased cheaply at any home store.

4 large chicken thighs
salt
pepper
2 common bricks, scrubbed clean and covered with aluminum foil

Pan Sauce

1 T oil from chicken
1/4 c finely-chopped shallot
1/4 c finely-chopped sweet pepper
2 t flour
1/8 t five-spice powder
1/8 t crushed red pepper
3/4 c chicken stock
2 t apple cider vinegar
1 t fresh or dry thyme

Trim away excess skin and fat. Bone thighs. Poke holes in fatty part of skin. Season each thigh with 1/2 t salt. Place on rack and refrigerate, skin side up, uncovered for up to 8 hours. Dry thoroughly. Place skin side down in 12-inch stainless-steel skillet cold. cover with bricks. turn heat to medium, and fry 7 to 9  minutes until mostly done and crispy on bottoms. remove bricks, Remove weight and continue to cook until skin is well browned and very crispy, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip thighs, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until second side is lightly browned and meat registers 160 to 165 degrees, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside but cover loosely so as not to soften the skin.

Lemonade by Ratio

One way to describe a recipe is to list, not amounts by measure, but rather, amounts by ratio to each other. This makes it easy to make a small or large batch. Lemonade depends on the balance of its ingredients and so is well suited to this approach. A 'part' may be a small volume such as an ounce or a cup or even a gallon! It's also possible to prepare lemonade not by volume measure but by weight.

1 part lemon juice
2 parts simple syrup
4 parts cold water
2 parts ice

Mix well in a glass, in a pitcher or in large serving container. For example, to make a single serving in a large glass:

2 oz lemon juice
4 oz simple syrup
8 oz cold water
4 oz ice

Scallops and Egg Noodles in Cream-Garlic Sauce

Developed December, 2018. Luxury in a quick and easy meal.

12 oz diver scallops
1 t salt
1/4 t white pepper
flour
1 oz each of butter and olive oil
1/2 c thinly-sliced shallot or leek
2 T thinly-sliced garlic
1/4 t crushed red pepper
1/3 c half and half or light cream
8 oz pappardelle or wide egg noodles

Bring two quarts of salted water to a boil in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the noodles and boil gently until tender but firm, about 9 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water, and keep covered. While the noodles cook, heat the oil and butter over medium in a 12-inch stainless-steel skillet. When sizzling stops, add the shallots, garlic and crushed red pepper, and sauté until lightly colored. Dry the scallops on paper towels and season with salt and pepper and dust lightly with flour. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the scallops. Cook gently until lightly browned on one side, turn and cook the other side. Stir in the dairy, the noodles, and the pasta water. Cook gently 5 minutes with mixing until the sauce is mostly absorbed and the noodles are tender. Add pasta water if needed. Taste for seasoning. Serves two or three generously. Variation: Substitute shelled shrimp or imitation crab meat (surimi) for the scallops. Butter-steamed cauliflower makes a good side dish.

Ben's BLT salad

Recorded December, 2018. Everybody's favorite sandwich without the bread. A Family Favorite.

2 c iceberg lettuce, cut into large cubes
4 strips of ‫crispy bacon‬, crumbled
1 large ripe tomato, cut into large pieces
2 T mayonnaise
1 T milk (or water)
1/2 t salt
freshly ground pepper

Assemble lettuce, tomato, and bacon in a bowl. In a small bowl, mix mayonnaise, milk, and seasonings together and dizzle on salad. Toss gently to coat. Serves two or three.

Jambalaya

Developed November 2018, inspired by a jambalaya enjoyed at a friend's table in October. Packed with flavor and solid nourishment, this comfort food is a Louisiana staple. Lots of ingredients, mostly pantry, but the cooking is straightforward and the dish comes together easily.

2 oz salt pork, diced
1 rib of celery, diced
1 medium green pepper, diced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 andouille sausage, cut into disks
4 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess skin and visible fat
2 T vegetable oil
2 c long grain rice

Seasonings

2 T tomato paste
1/4 t red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
1 T minced garlic
1 t oregano
1 t thyme
1 t smoked paprika
1/4 t cayenne or 1 t chipotle

14.5 oz can diced tomatoes
2 c hot shrimp stock
2 t salt
12 oz medium shrimp
1 T Old Bay seasoning

In a heavy pan or dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, fry the salt pork until crisp, add the celery, green pepper, onion, and sausage. Cook until softened. Add thighs and partially cook over moderate heat for a 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove chicken to a plate and cover to keep warm. Increase heat, stir in rice and oil. Fry the rice with frequent stirring for few minutes until it turns milky. Stir in the seasonings, heat until aromatic, and add the tomatoes and hot stock. Place the chicken thighs on top, cover, and reduce the heat to a fast simmer. Tear apart the chicken when done (about 30 minutes), mix into rice. Arrange the shrimp on top, and dust with Old Bay seasoning. Cover tightly and let dish rest for 10 minutes while the shrimp steam through. Combine gently and serve. Serves 6.

Ben's Quick Egg and Tomato Asian Soup

The traditional Chinese recipe is basically water, tomato, egg, and scallions plus a pinch of sugar, salt, and white pepper. This version is enhanced a bit for the jaded American palate. Low in carbohydrates.

1 T vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 t ginger root, minced
1/2 c chopped ripe tomato
Pinch sugar
Pinch salt
Dash white pepper
3 c chicken or vegetable stock or water
1 T corn starch dispersed in a little cold water
2 eggs, well beaten
3 to 4 green onions, sliced
1/2 t mushroom soy (optional)

In a two-quart saucepan, heat garlic and ginger in a little oil for 30 sec. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper and sugar. Allow to break down. 2 to 3 minutes. Add broth and mushroom soy. Bring to a boil. Thicken with cornstarch slurry. Off heat, stream egg into hot soup to form threads. Garnish with green onions. Serves two generously.

Meat Loaf II

Developed October, 2018. Beef and pork are combined with both raw and cooked onion and warm spices to produce a moist meay product.

1 lb lean ground beef
1 lb ground pork
1 large egg
1 slice white bread, cubed, plus enough milk to cover
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 T olive oil
1 t sugar
3 t salt, divided
3/4 cup bread crumbs or matzoh meal
1/2 t freshly-ground black pepper
1/4 c chopped parsley
1 t ground fennel seed
2 t minced garlic
1 t dry thyme
1/2 t ground coriander

Position rack in the middle of oven preheated to 350 degrees F. Add two-thirds of the onion to a small bowl along with the oil, sugar and a teaspoon of salt. Microwave on high for 2 minutes and set aside to cool. Put the bread cubes in a medium bowl, cover with milk, add the egg, raw onion, cooked onion, 2 teaspoons of salt, the parsley, and the seasonings. Mix well until combined. Combine the meats in a large bowl and mix gently by hand until uniform. Next work in the crumbs, and then the egg mixture until well mixed. To mold, pack the meat mixture into a 4.5x8 inch loaf pan and invert it onto a sheet pan covered with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Bake about an hour or until the internal temperature reads 175 F. Tent loosely with aluminum foil and rest about 15 minutes before slicing. A mushroom gravy or beef gravy goes well. Variation: Cut thin slices when cool and serve as sandwiches on challa bread with yellow mustard.

Steamed Then Shallow-Fried Potatoes

Pan-Fried Potatoes

Inspired by a similar dish served at Beachside Bistro in Kill Devil Hills, NC. They call them 'home fries'. Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. Developed November, 2018.

12 oz (350 g) small red potatoes (about 1-1/4 oz or 35 g each)
vegetable oil
1/4 t (1 ml) granulated garlic
2 t (10 ml) dry rosemary
1 t coarse salt
1/4 t freshly-ground pepper

Steam the potatoes for 8 to 10 minutes until a paring knife goes in easily half-way. Spread on a kitchen towel and let cool and dry. When cool, quarter the potatoes. Heat 1/4 inch (5 mm) vegetable oil in a 10-inch heavy non-stick skillet to 375 degrees F (190 C). Cautiously, add the potatoes. Fry the potatoes, maintaining the temperature above 325 F (163 C), turning them occasionally. When browned and crispy on all sides, lift them from skillet with a spider, tongs, or a slotted spoon to a serving bowl. Toss with the seasonings and serve immediately. Serves 2 or 3.

Quick Beef Gravy

Developed October, 2018. Good companion to roast beef, meat loaf, mashed potatoes, hot sandwiches.

1 T vegetable oil
1 T wheat flour
1/4 t each ground coriander, rosemary, thyme, garlic powder
8 oz hot water, divided
1 T beef stock base
1/2 t mushroom powder
1 T tapioca or corn starch dispersed in 1 T cold water

In a small saucepan, mix flour and oil. Heat over medium until a blonde roux forms, about 4 minutes. Stir in herbs. Slowly stir in a 1/4 cup hot water until a smooth slurry is formed. Stir in stock base and mushroom powder. When incorporated, stir in the remaining hot water, and simmer 5 minutes. Return to pan, stir in starch slurry, heat and stir until it thickens. Can be easily doubled. Variations: Dilute finished gravy with 1 cup beef stock to make a 'jus' for French dip sandwiches or use as a base for hearty soups or stews.

Cauliflower Quick Braise in Butter and Stock

Developed Fall, 2018. The microwave makes this a very quick preparation. Sumac is a popular middle-eastern spice that adds a citrus-like acidity and an attractive red-orange color.

10 oz (275 g) cauliflower, cut into small florets
water in a trigger spray
1/4 t salt
1 t chicken stock concentrate (Better Than Bouillon™ Organic Reduced Sodium is good)
1/2 T butter, cut into small dice
1/4 t ground sumac or 1 t lemon juice

Place cauliflower in a medium glass bowl, mist with water, season with salt, and toss. Microwave on high (1250 W) for 2-1/2 minutes, covered tightly. Stir in the stock concentrate and the butter. Mix until combined adding a little water if needed. Microwave one more minute, add sumac, and stir. Serves 2 or 3.

Hint: How to Prevent Freezer Burn

So-called "freezer burn" is the term used to designate the process that turns the outside layer of a frozen food product into a dry, unpalatable residue covered with frost. The cause of the food drying and the accumulation of surface frost is sublimation. Sublimation is when water molecules evaporate from ice in much the same way they evaporate from liquid water. This dehydrates the food, spoiling it. Some of the released water vapor then re-deposits on the surface in needle-like frost.

What can be done? Two techniques largely eliminate the problem. (1) Mist the food with a light layer of water using a trigger spray before wrapping. This added layer will act as "sacrificial water" that can be lost to sublimation without harming the food but too little to dilute flavor. (2) Eliminate as much of the air space between the food and the wrap as possible. This denies a space for the water molecules to enter. Use a thin plastic bag or plastic wrap that can be pulled tight as the first wrap layer. Place that package in a larger bag and force the air from it. This outer bag protects the inner bag from puncture or leaks and adds another layer of protection.

One-Pan Easy Mac and Cheese

Developed September, 2018 from a recipe on America's Test Kitchen TV program on PBS. The method cooks the elbows in milk and water and adds the cheeses after the pasta is cooked al dente. American processed cheese includes 'emulsifying salts' — namely sodium citrate — that yield a smooth melt and prevent the sharp cheddar, there to boost flavor intensity, from oily separation.

2 c milk
3 c water
1 t salt
1 lb elbow macaroni
1/8 t cayenne
2 t Dijon mustard
8 oz American cheese, grated (from deli, not packaged slices)
8 oz sharp cheddar cheese, grated
8 oz sliced ripe tomatoes

Bring milk. water, and salt to a boil in a three-quart saucepan. Be careful to prevent boiling over. Stir in the macaroni, reduce heat to a fast simmer, and cook until pasta is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Off heat, stir in the seasonings and the American cheese until melted. Return to heat and simmer gently 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in the cheddar cheese, top with tomato slices, and cover. Let stand 10 minutes to soften the tomatoes. Stir the tomatoes into the pasta, reheating as necessary. Variation: Replace the tomatoes with 1/2 cup frozen peas. Hint: Freeze the American cheese before grating.

Frozen Pot Stickers

Developed September, 2018 as part of a Chinese-style dim sum (appetizer) supper. Fast, easy, cheap.

8 frozen pot stickers
2 t vegetable oil
1/2 t sesame oil
2 T chicken stock

Heat a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium high and film it with oil. Add the frozen pot stickers. Let them fry undisturbed for a few minutes to brown one side. Turn them and continue frying until they are colored on all sides. Add sesame oil and stock. Cover, lower heat, and steam for 5 minutes. Pass dipping sauce. Serves two as part of a dim sum meal. Easily doubled.

MiniReview: Copa Cuban Restaurant

Wound up at lunch time feeling a bit peckish parked across Main Street from the newly opened Cuban place, "Copa". Checked the menu on my smart phone. Looked yumm and affordable. Greg Cox gave it ****, $$, a great ratio of quality to cost. Son Jon and I popped in, were immediately seated. Durham is still very quiet after Hurricane Florence, even though all roads are clear and the sky was sunny. An elegant room, cream lemon walls, photographs of Cuban scenes. Not old Havana. Today's. 

The verdict? Best Cuban sandwich possible! They bake the bread. Perfect crust and crumb. They cure the ham. They cure the pickles. They roast the meat. Their own sauce. And wonderful blackbeans in a rich, aromatic gravy. Good golly, tops! Only drank ice water, which they serve at the table in an elegant, ice-cold glass bottle. Friendly, effective service. We both ordered the same meal, total was $24 before tax and tip. Worth every scrumptious morsel. I took half of mine home. We both made happy noises.

Copa
106 W. Main St.
Durham, NC 27701
https://copadurham.com/

Easy Carnitas (Double-Cooked Pork)

First prepared May, 2016. A simple method to prepare a flavorsome main dish or an ingredient in another.

2 lbs boneless pork shoulder or country-style ribs
water
1 t salt
1/2 t ground cumin

Cut pork into 1/2 inch pieces. Put meat and salt in a cold Dutch oven and barely cover with water. Bring to a gentle boil and cook covered over medium heat for 20 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking with occasional stirring until all the water evaporates and the meat begins to sizzle in its fat. Continue cooking until browned and crisp. Drain and set aside. Serve as part of a meal with rice, beans, salsa, and tortillas or in a taco with toppings of your choice.

Chinese Stock Base

Developed October, 2015. Often in Chinese cooking a flavorsome, complex stock is used to finish a stir fry dish in the wok, prepare sauces, or serve as a light broth with a few petals of tender napa cabbage.

1 qt water
2 t soy sauce
1 t fish sauce
1 t rice wine
1 t dark sesame oil
2 T chicken base
1/2 t salt
1 t sugar
1 inch fresh ginger root, split and crushed
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 green onions, cut in large pieces

Place ingredients in a two-quart saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil, cover, lower heat and simmer 30 minutes. Let cool off heat, still covered, and strain out solids through a sieve. Store cold in a covered container or freeze in measured amounts in plastic bags

Hint: Freeze Tomato Paste in Recipe-Sized Portions

Tomato paste provides a rich base of umami flavor and healthful nutrients to many dishes. Heated with oil at the start of a sauté, it imparts color and flavor to the pan sauce or soup.The usual dish calls for a tablespoon or two, leaving the problem of how to store the remainder of the can's contents. To handle that problem, we divide the contents into 1 ounce (~30 gram) portions, using a #30 disher ('ice cream scoop'). This size scoop is called a '#30 disher' because it was designed to dish out 30 scoops from a quart of ice cream. They are available online for a few dollars. Each scoop of tomato paste is deposited into the corner of a Z-fold plastic sandwich bag, twisted closed, and individually frozen, then bagged. When needed, just the right amount of tomato paste, easily pops from its bag, ready for cooking. It thaws quickly, as the pan heats.

Hint: Save space when storing eggs

We love hens eggs and eat and use quite a few every week in our home. To save money and for convenience, we buy packs that hold 18 eggs. In our markets, the egg cartons are made of foamed plastic or pulpboard. Our practice is store the eggs in a refrigerator below 40 degrees F to preserve product quality. This puts a premium on the lowest and thus coldest shelf space. To make it easier to store and handle the eggs, we cut the package in half, using a serrated knife. After eggs have been removed, the remaining eggs can be re-arranged to balance the container to make it easier to handle.

Banana-Walnut Bread

Freshly-baked loaf sliced to show moist, dense crumb.

Developed September, 2017. Modified from an online recipe to eliminate the traditional dry-ingredient step.

2 eggs
1 c sugar
1 t baking soda
1 t baking powder
1 t salt
4 very ripe bananas, mashed
1 t vanilla
1/2 c vegetable oil
1 t cinnamon
2 c flour
1/3 c chopped toasted walnuts

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Whisk in baking soda, baking powder, salt, the bananas, vanilla, oil and cinnamon. Blend in the flour, a half-cup at a time, until just combined. Stir in nuts. Pour the batter into a greased 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Bake on the middle rack for 55 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Yields a 2.2 lb (1 kg) loaf. Store refrigerated. Freezes well. Variation: Toast slices and spread with cream cheese.

Blackened Baby Bok Choy

This easy, quick side dish for many rich main courses uses immature Asian cabbages. It's quick, tasty, and complex in flavor.

4 heads baby bok choy
2 t vegetable oil 

Seasonings

1 t dark sesame oil
2 t dark soy sauce
1 t mushroom soy
1 t rice wine
1 T water

Cut heads lengthwise, rinse, and dry. Heat vegetable oil in a stainless-steel skillet on medium high until it shimmers. Place cabbages cut side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes until well colored. Turn over, add seasonings and water, cover, and steam a few minutes until tender.

Peruvian Rice

Developed April, 2018 from a recipe in a English-language Peruvian cookbook by Gastón Acurio.

2 c long-grain rice
3 c water
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 T salt
3 T vegetable oil, divided

In a medium saucepan, heat two tablespoons of oil until hot. Add the garlic, and cook until lightly colored and aromatic. Add the water and salt, and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes, add the rice, stir, reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook 15 minutes. Drizzle on the remaining oil and fluff with a fork. Cover and let steam ten minutes before serving. Serves 4 to 8. Variation: Add 1/4 cup of Thai fried onions or shallots to the cooking water.

Microwave Poached Egg

Developed March, 2018 when the stove-top range was out of service.

1 large egg
1 c (240 ml) water
1 t (5 ml) white vinegar

1 oz (30 g) sliced ham
toasted, buttered English muffin

Put water and vinegar in a microwave-safe bowl. Choose a bowl in which the egg will be covered, about 12 ounce (350 ml) capacity. Place bowl on a plate for safe handling. Cover and microwave on high until the water boils. Carefully break the egg into the hot water. Cover, let stand for 30 seconds, and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Check if the whites are firm. Continue as needed in 15 second increments. Lift carefully from hot water with a slotted spoon, blot gently with a clean towel, and place on a buttered toasted English muffin topped with a slice of warm ham (optional). Season to taste with salt and pepper. [Note: Microwave oven is rated 1250 watts.]

Oven-Braised Beef Chuck Ribs

Beef Chuck Ribs with Egg Noodles

Developed January, 2018. This hard-to-find cut sits next to the short ribs. Although it is less expensive it is just as flavorsome. In this recipe, a homemade BBQ sauce furnishes the braising liquid.

2 4-rib racks beef chuck ribs
1 c Durham-Style BBQ sauce
GP seasoning and rub
8 oz egg noodles

Preheat oven to 325 F. Rinse and dry the meat. Trim away any loose fat or tissues and cut into two-rib sections.  Season both sides generously (1 tablespoon per pound) and place into a dutch oven. Pour the sauce over the meat, turning with tongs to cover. Roast covered, turning occasionally, until meat is fork tender, about 3 hours. Boil the noodles for two minutes less than package calls for. Drain the noodles, stir them into the pot, and return to the oven for 10 minutes to absorb flavor and finish cooking. Serves four. Sauteed spinach makes a good side. Variation: Include par-boiled green cabbage wedges with the noodles. Extend cooking time as needed until they are tender.

Pork Congee

Congee (often called 'jook') is unfamiliar to most Western diners but is a staple dish in China, often eaten for breakfast. Akin to Cream of Rice in texture, it's a warm, aromatic, easy-to-digest, satisfying 'comfort' food.  This version was developed in January 2018 from a recipe at SeriousEats.Com.

1/2 lb ground pork
1/2 t minced fresh ginger root
1/2 t minced garlic
1 t shaoxing wine
1/4 t kosher salt
1/4 t sugar
1/2 t soy sauce
1/4 t sodium bicarbonate
1-1/2 t cornstarch
2 t vegetable oil

5 c water
1/2 c medium-grain rice, rinsed and drained
1-1/2 t kosher salt

1 c corn kernels, canned, frozen and thawed, or fresh-cut
2 scallions, sliced across

In a bowl, combine the first 10 ingredients. Mix well and set aside. In a three-quart saucepan, combine water, rice, and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Cook gently for 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The congee should look creamy. Add the pork mixture to the congee, breaking apart the meat, and simmer with stirring with the lid off until the pork is cooked, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in the corn and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately, topped with chopped scallions.